Woodwork UK

Welcome to the forum. You need to post a few more times before pm's kick in.

Probably made in the Far East by 7 year olds so labour costs would be negligible.

Welcome to the forum. I tend to agree that a router won't be able to do a round over on a piece like the snake in your link. Looks to me like it's been done by hand.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/ronseal-colro ... -clear-125

Google cutting solutions - Doug is a member of the forum and is very helpful. Their blades are good quality too.

Are you thinking of flat pack or assembled. I'd be interested but imagine cost of transport would make it prohibitive.

Q2 - no reason why you can't use exterior varnish indoors.

In a word, no!

Welcome to the forum. The wood is pine, to stop resin bleeding either use knotting or if you ate going to paint it prime it with zinser bin. Finally you say you want to make something good quality that will stand the test of time - if so, and you want it made from pine, do yourself a favour and chuc...

Welcome to the forum. Would it not be easier to take a photo of one of the the hinges that isn't broken?

the only down side is that if you drill into it a few times or cut into it then the melamine will start to split and you won't have a particularly flat surface. A lot of people just use two bits of 18mm moisture resistant mdf screwed together to make a 36mm thick top. if you want you can varnish it ...

Welcome to the forum. Will the wood you intend dimensioning be seasoned or still green. Either way, I think that trying to handle an 8' x 2' x 3" plank of rough sawn timber over any portable saw is going to be fraught with problems. You need a saw that is going to be heavier than the piece of w...

I'm not an expert on ply, but Baltic ply would refer to birch ply coming from the baltic region which would include Finland. On the odd occasions I've wanted decent quality ply I get Latvian birch ply from my supplier Richard Russell Panels, but they are in the South East so not much help to you. Yo...

Hi. A rough idea of sizes might be helpful as it's not too clear from your photos.

For site work I use a midi with the long life bag. Expensive initially but worth it in the long run. I just empty the bag into a rubble sack every so often. I had a bigger one initially but when full was quite a weight to carry up stairs.

welcome to the forum. would have been nice if you'd introduced yourself first - just don't let it happen again

That is a very generous offer and would probably just about be enough. The trouble is that I am trying to match this unit below which has a lot of sapwood in it, so perversely good quality teak may not be suitable. Let me talk to the customer and I'll get back to you. https://secure.img2-ag.wfcdn.co...

I've been commissioned to build a bathroom cupboard to match an existing teak vanity unit. Other than Robins in Bristol, does anyone have any suggestions for a supplier of teak - I need boards up to 150mm wide or can suggest an alternative that isn't on the CITES list (like afrormosia). Iroko is a p...

I've got a veritas shelf jig which is great for the 5mm shelf supports but I don't think it has a bush for a 3mm hole which is what I prefer using. I need to find someone with a lathe who can turn one up for me.

The links seem to be working OK for me - currently on my PC, and yes, if you just want to advertise then your posts will be removed and you might get some 'choice' language from Jason into the bargain before you leave!

I would second felder or maybe hammer, but you are going to struggle getting a combination machine that includes a morticer.

I had a quick look too, and you need to use an 8mm cutter which in my opinion is too big for an 18mm board as you will only have a max of 5mm either side of the hole. I don't know what everyone else uses on carcase work but I almost always use 5mm domino's.

Make your own would be my advice. Some 4 x 2 and a sheet of mdf and you're done. If you don't have the facility to handle full sheets of mdf get your local timber yard to cut it to size.

If I make something that has to be assembled on site I just design it with decor end panels if visible so that I can use dominos and carcase screws for chipboard or spax mdf screws for mdf to hold it all together. Once assembled none of the screws are visible, although it doesn't look particularly p...

Hi David, I've got a kreg k4ms that was significantly cheaper than the UJK one you linked to and would appear to do the same thing. I has a separate single hole jig that you can clamp to bigger pieces. Just doing a quick search, it would appear that prices have gone up in the 5 years since I bought ...

Very nice David and as Jonathan said, great photos.

Very impressive matey. The only thing I would be concerned with is the expansion gap between the boards. From personal experience I don’t think that 1.5mm will be enough - I’d have gone for 3mm and treated them before assembly. I hope I’m wrong as they really do look the business.

Send 9fingers Bob a pm - he knows all there ix to know about motors and is really helpful.

Tony K wrote:
9fingers wrote:Try using the sagulator. Each side of your pond could be considered as a shelf on its side?
Bob

Sounds good, where can I find your mysterious sagulator?

google

I personally wouldn't even attempt to try and cut 4" thick green oak on that bandsaw - particularly not 8' lengths. Why not just buy some 1" sawn boards?

Welcome to the forum. Would be helpful if you can tell us what bandsaw you have and the size of the sleepers.

Not sure about staining poplar, you'd need to try a sample first, but I'm a big fan of osmo - have a look at their wood wax finishes.

jermaine87 wrote:Is it still available?

Welcome to the forum. I suggest you contact them directly.

Just seen that this went for £796 plus £5 postage! I take it that wasn't you, Roger?

Currently at £735 plus postage with 10 hours to go, when you can get a new one for £850 from Warren at Bunny's Bolts (toolfest), I know what I would do. Pay £735 plus postage? I think actually I'd pay the full price from a reputable dealer where I know if something goes wrong I'm going to be able t...

You might be able to do the half lap joints using a router and a jig. Clamp a number of pieces together and then run the router across them to form the rebate. The jig could reference from the previously cut rebate. The jig would have to be set at exactly 90 degrees otherwise the rebates would all b...

Currently at £735 plus postage with 10 hours to go, when you can get a new one for £850 from Warren at Bunny's Bolts (toolfest), I know what I would do.

That is going to be very difficult to make and get everything to line up. Dowels would be one way of doing the joints, but drilling all the pieces accurately is going to be a PITA even with jigs and a pillar drill. You could try and modify the design and just do lap joints - think garden trellis.

Yes, the guard is height adjustable and removable if need be so the brush has not been an issue as yet its this saw ... http://www.conwaysaw.co.uk/product/mpower-concept-320-plus-panel-saw/ bought 2nd hand but was new from them. Thanks for that. The only thing I don't like about my felder is the cr...

I have the same issue though i don't have the fine filter on the extractor as its outside, what has helped a bit is fixing some long pile brush strip around the guard to seal it off better https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p84655 that stuff. I will try a separate extractor for the crown guard at som...

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