Woodwork UK

welcome to the forum. you could try osmo raw, which I have used on some light woods with some success, but any oil will change the colour to a certain extent. The only other option would be to spray it with a lacquer.

welcome to the forum. if you want a router to use in a router sled then you should definately look for a larger one with a 1/2" collet. You can then, if you wish, use collet adaptors to use router bits with a smaller diameter shaft. routers to look for would be something like the Trend t10, dew...

thanks for the update. I would strongly recommend not adding any more coats as the manufacturer only recommends 2 and you may get issues with it not drying fully.

180g would be ok, just don't go coarser than 120g. Colour will be similar. When you apply the osmo do a thin coat, leave a couple of minutes and then wipe off any excess with paper towels. It should be touch dry. Leave a day and apply a 2nd coat as above.

Be very careful sanding the table unless you are 101% sure that it is solid beech. In all likelihood it is a veneer which will be less than 1mm thick. The white spirit should remove the excess oil, and once dry I personally would just very lightly hand sand with 120g paper. Osmo Polyx is widely avai...

Welcome to the forum. You have to post a few times before posting photos. Regarding your table, teak oil is generally used for garden furniture. Any idea what the finish was originally? I suspect you may have to clean the oil off with white spirits and start again. My preference would be to use osmo...

welcome to the forum. If you post a couple more times you will be able to post a picture which might help in advising on the best course of action.

Looks good. Are they going to add cushions or leave as is?

Welcome to the forum. With regards to drying your piece of oak, I would leave it outside, under shelter, and hope for the best. Oh and you will need to be patient - the rule of thumb for air drying is 1 year per inch of thickness. The likelihood is that the bark will come off and there isn't a lot t...

James I've got a bunch of shaker doors to make soon....I'm intrigued as to what the Bobby method is? Jonathan http://www.woodworkuk.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=5805&p=73168&hilit=door#p73168 Sadly the images have gone - maybe Bobby could repost. Or I will take some photos of my copy...

Any suggestions for a supplier of custom shaker doors? I was planning on using cutwrights for an upcoming job however they only do doors with a 90mm rail and stile and the customer wants 70 or 75mm. There are going to be around 40 doors / drawer fronts and ideally they will come primed.

Thanks

No experience of 3ph power feeds, but all the single phase ones I've seen have a switch on the body of the feeder to turn on and off and change speed and feed direction. I can't imagine that a 3ph one would be any different.

If the old door fits nicely use it as a template.

Well done Will - keep us posted and feel free to ask for advice as we have all been in your position at some point in the past.

Welcome to the forum. If you just want a quantity of French Cleats for your own use, it would be much easier and cheaper to get a local joinery shop to run them off for you on a rip saw or table saw. With your budget you are only going to get a basic site saw which will be difficult to use. If you a...

welcome to the forum. you need to make a couple of posts before you can post a picture, but from your description it is probably fine. As long as the plate is flat and straight and the spine is straight it doesn't really matter about the angle of the spine to the plate.

Give Doug of Cutting Solutions a shout - he is the most knowledgeable person regarding saw blades:
Tel: 01353 968711
Tel: 0800 280 0913
Mobile: 07741 264260
sales@cutting-solutions.co.uk
www.cutting-solutions.co.uk

Welcome. I have exactly this set up, sorted out by a member of the forum who is a wizz with all things electrical. Sadly I have no idea what exactly he did, but he has added something inside the NVR switch to allow it to be operated from a remote socket. Note that at least with mine, the NVR switch ...

Now don't laugh but .... I also had a bit of an accident a month or so back. The main on/off buttons for the Hammer are in the middle of the machine which entails walking behind the table saw to turn it off. There is an emergency switch on the table saw side but it's one of those that latches and y...

Thanks Mark. Very helpful.

Steve

Thanks for the suggestions. Will give it some more thought as I can't do anything at the moment anyway!

For those who have the domino, please take great care if you are changing depth of plunge going from shallow cuts on something like a face frame to deeper cuts on the carcase. If you forget to change the setting when cutting a slot in a thinner piece the cutter will exit on the face, and if you stup...

Tomyjoiner wrote:structural engineer will want steels to cover his ar*e.4x2 ties below ridge on every rafter, dwarf walls in 4x2 double header boarded in osb3 for load bearing.

. . .which is why I don't want to talk to a structural engineer

Evening. I would really appreciate some advise on modifying my garage roof at home - see below. garage 1.JPG garage 5.JPG The garage is single skin, and the roof has a span of 5.4m a pitch of 45 deg and is 5.7m wide. The rafters are 5x2 and the joists 6x2. At each end the rafters have been doubled u...

The reason Iam here is because I was on the other forum as recommended from another forum, :roll: I got bullied and picked on by a "God" like member, other members tried to defuse to situation, I gave as much back admittedly, but no Mod intervention. Welsome. No bullying on WWUK - we are ...

Go for it. in the past UKW mods were a bunch of tossers - partly why this forum started. it used to be the case that WWUK was more trade orientated and UKW hobby, but no idea what UKW is like now as I've not visited in ages.

Thanks for posting the picture. One possibility is that they are caused by splashing or spitting from something on the cooker, although I think this is unlikely. Black specks on oak are usually due to contamination from ferrous metals - i.e. rubbing down the timber with wire wool before or while the...

Hi Jon. -Gravesen may not get a PM yet as he has only posted once - IIRC you have to post a few times before being able to get PM's . Gravesen if you are reading this maybe introduce yourself or contribute to another thread.

welcome to the forum. could you post a picture of the door in situ showing the side where the marks are?

martin.pearson wrote:Quote is in so see how it goes, thanks for the replies, always helps to ask the experts.

Just don't blame us if it goes tits up

Welcome to the forum. Assuming that you can do the glue up in somewhere that you can get to room temperature i.e. above about 15C then try using a D3 or D4 PVA wood glue and also using some sort of mechanical fixing if possible i.e. pins through the ply into the DF. For the record I personally hate ...

Just one more thing about the website - I clicked on some of the photos at the bottom, and the text alongside was illegible - if you want people to read it change the font and make it bigger.

re. facebook - I have tended to keep clear of it as at least for me it is a bit like yellow pages of old - a lot of timewasters just getting quotes with no intention of getting the work done. One I looked at last year - alcove cupboards and shelving - the 'customer' told me he'd be in touch but it w...

Very nice! Did you do the pebble dashing or was it my mate Stevie Wonder!

Tomyjoiner wrote:I wouldn’t recommend no plinths as it will be a right pain cleaning under them, on the other hand it might be handy to brush everything under!

Somewhere for the mice to live! Looks good - thanks for posting.

+1 for Stixall for what you are wanting to do. Other hybrid polymer adhesives are available however

Welcome to the forum. The only way to easily do it would be to mount the piece of wood on a sled at the desired inclination and run it through a planer thicknesser. This isn't something that you could do yourself without investing upwards of £1000 in a p/t but most reasonable joinery shops would be ...

Welcome to the forum. Are these posts going to be kept indoor or are they for the exterior? If outdoors then there will be a lot more movement and I would think that something with a degree of flexibility would be necessary. If indoors then I would probably go for some sort of 2 part epoxy.

Welcome to the forum. I've not made anything from recycled wood but have seen quite a few pictures of things made from pallets. Most seem to be painted and I think that would be the way I'd go. Trying to varnish or wax something as rough as pallet wood is going to be a struggle.

Best of luck!

One of my timber suppliers moulds grooves on the back face of wide mouldings presumably to help prevent cupping - just a thought

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