Woodwork UK

Thanks for posting the picture. One possibility is that they are caused by splashing or spitting from something on the cooker, although I think this is unlikely. Black specks on oak are usually due to contamination from ferrous metals - i.e. rubbing down the timber with wire wool before or while the...

Hi Jon. -Gravesen may not get a PM yet as he has only posted once - IIRC you have to post a few times before being able to get PM's . Gravesen if you are reading this maybe introduce yourself or contribute to another thread.

welcome to the forum. could you post a picture of the door in situ showing the side where the marks are?

martin.pearson wrote:Quote is in so see how it goes, thanks for the replies, always helps to ask the experts.

Just don't blame us if it goes tits up

Welcome to the forum. Assuming that you can do the glue up in somewhere that you can get to room temperature i.e. above about 15C then try using a D3 or D4 PVA wood glue and also using some sort of mechanical fixing if possible i.e. pins through the ply into the DF. For the record I personally hate ...

Just one more thing about the website - I clicked on some of the photos at the bottom, and the text alongside was illegible - if you want people to read it change the font and make it bigger.

re. facebook - I have tended to keep clear of it as at least for me it is a bit like yellow pages of old - a lot of timewasters just getting quotes with no intention of getting the work done. One I looked at last year - alcove cupboards and shelving - the 'customer' told me he'd be in touch but it w...

Very nice! Did you do the pebble dashing or was it my mate Stevie Wonder!

Tomyjoiner wrote:I wouldn’t recommend no plinths as it will be a right pain cleaning under them, on the other hand it might be handy to brush everything under!

Somewhere for the mice to live! Looks good - thanks for posting.

+1 for Stixall for what you are wanting to do. Other hybrid polymer adhesives are available however

Welcome to the forum. The only way to easily do it would be to mount the piece of wood on a sled at the desired inclination and run it through a planer thicknesser. This isn't something that you could do yourself without investing upwards of £1000 in a p/t but most reasonable joinery shops would be ...

Welcome to the forum. Are these posts going to be kept indoor or are they for the exterior? If outdoors then there will be a lot more movement and I would think that something with a degree of flexibility would be necessary. If indoors then I would probably go for some sort of 2 part epoxy.

Welcome to the forum. I've not made anything from recycled wood but have seen quite a few pictures of things made from pallets. Most seem to be painted and I think that would be the way I'd go. Trying to varnish or wax something as rough as pallet wood is going to be a struggle.

Best of luck!

One of my timber suppliers moulds grooves on the back face of wide mouldings presumably to help prevent cupping - just a thought

Welcome. I have a Makita 9403 and it is a good trade rated machine. I guess the question is, what are you wanting to use it to do and for how long? If it is just a one off, then probably better to hire one.

welcome. personally i would look at a plunge saw / guide rail if you are mainly going to be using man made boards. Hi Steve and Merry Christmas to you and all on the forum. Now to the question: I don't actually own a plunge saw myself as most of my current work is site carpentry (structural) and on...

Welcome to the forum. No personal experience of steam bending, but other than possibly needing longer in the steam chamber I can't think that it will be a problem. Might be best to try a couple of samples before committing to a large order.

Welcome. I've had quite a few jobs from adverts in parish magazines over the years. Some get delivered to all houses in the parish and they give are the best leads. I think I pay around £140 a year in one of them. Best of luck.

Long shot! I should say so, as it is almost exactly 6 years since Paul posted this

For furniture i personally would only use a paint specifically designed for spraying like Morrells. I've had to spray ordinary wb paint a couple of times and there's no comparison, especially when it comes to drying times.

All my shaker doors are made traditionally even when using mdf. I.e. the rails are scribed to fit the stiles and the panel is fitted into the groove before glueing up. With entirely mdf made doors the panel is glued into the frame. I usually use 22mm mrmdf for the frame and 9mm for the panel althoug...

Welcome. I'm not aware of one jig that does both, but I bought a Kreg kit that had both in it and I use it extensively.

Welcome to the forum Peter

The only time I have had mdf doors bow significantly was wardrobe doors I supplied primed which the customers decorator was going to finish. Despite telling them that they had to be finished exactly the same inside and out, he didn't and surprise surprise they bowed. I wonder if when your doors are ...

Welcome to the forum. With regards to spraying I use Morrells water bourne primer and lacquer with good results using an Earlex HVLP kit, although I have never used it on site. For hand painting I've just done a kitchen using Tikkurilia Otex Akva / Helmi paint and it is fantastic stuff.

Welcome. I've used the Accuride 1316 a couple of times and the drawings that Accuride supply are pretty good . Just bear in mind that if you are fitting internal panels to allow enough space for whatever hinges you are using and allow access to the adjusting screws.

Welcome. If the covers (presume you mean the clear flexible plastic ones) are important to you then It might be easier to buy a complete new switch if the manufacturer can't help you.

Welcome to the forum. I've not used the micro pocket jig but I do use standard kreg jigs regularly. I would have thought that it would be fine assuming that you can get good quality (birch) ply.

I also had a gents saw when I was about 7 or 8 - they are fairly easy for a small hand to grip. First projet could be a bench hook.

Welcome to the forum. Is there any way of getting the aluminium anodised which would stop it oxidising?

As the original post was 4 years ago I doubt very much that the K5 is still available, but you never know!

Don't whatever you do use silicone as it will bugger up your finish

In my opinion, it will be down to how the windows are maintained rather than what wood they are made from. I would have thought that assuming they are well made and regularly maintained and painted with an appropriate paint at regular intervals then unsorted redwood would be fine.

You could buy an entire ikea beech block work top for that sort of money cut off what you want and cut up thw rest into smaller chopping boards and you've got your Christmas presents sorted!

Let me know which gun / sprayer you have and if I'm in the area I will pop in and ask as they aren't too far away and in the past they've been very helpful.

Duly noted!

Welcome. Looks not dissimilar to lacewood.

What are the rails and stiles going to be made from as a veneered board would match the grain even painted. Personally I won't buy or use anything other than moisture resistant mdf if you dont want a veneered board. As to thickness probably 12mm.

Accuride do heavy duty full extension runners up to 700 or 800mm deep and rated up to over 200kg but they ain't cheap. Fixed castors would be a cheaper alternative. I've used accuride ones rated around 80kg with no problem.

Félicitations !

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