Woodwork UK

Hi. Thanks for the reply. What would be the max length of horizontal components? If this measurement exceeds the desired shelf width, what should I construct the shelves from? Plywood? Thanks again D I wouldn't go more than about 800mm, but if you need to then you can add a timber batten underneath...

Welcome to the forum. I personally would make it out of 18mm moisture resistant mdf. The only thing to be aware of is that you need to avoid any long unsupported horizontal components as they will sag.

Sorry to hear about your friends tragic loss.

It would help however to know where the saw is located.

he won't be able to post photos until he has posted a couple of times to ensure that the photos posted aren't inappropriate

welcome to the forum. it would help to have a rough idea of what you are wanting for the edgebander and also the condition.

Hi Mark. Thanks for all the questions. Before I try to answer them this is my set up for spraying: spraying.jpg I usually use Morrells Waterbourne lacquers, but I've used Tikkurila Helmi on two jobs and I've been very pleased with the results. The reason for choosing it rather than using Morrells is...

I'd have said that the two that look like pig stickers must be for a type of mortising machine as the round tapered end looks like a large morse taper.

Not sure what your budget is, but there is a nice looking Felder KF500 saw spindle single phase on Ebay which looks good https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Felder-KF500 ... SwVTldqGC7

Thanks chaps!

I've just stopped my subscription to Furniture and Cabinet Making as there was little in it of interest to me as I have no intention of spending thousands of pounds and hundreds of hours making a work bench that I'd be afraid to use! I do have a stack of back issues, and if you are local to me you'd...

Earlier this year I completed my first bespoke kitchen and utility and the customer has kindly sent me some photos now that the decorating has been finished. It was quite an undertaking, not least because of the size but also because the customer in question was our very own RogerM's daughter and so...

Welcome. You would probably be best talking to a machinery supplier - maybe Axminster Tools to ask them, but FYI, on my ancient Fobco pillar drill it is possible to lower the head down the pillar as well as moving the table.

I use Domino's to align the sides with the top and bottom panels and 45mm carcase screws through the sides if into mfc or spax mdf screws into mfmdf. The backs are also held on with carcase screws - 33mm if a thinner back is used. I don't generally glue anything other than where a unit may get wet -...

Can't you just thickness some beech to 8mm and rip to width? Last weekend I ended up using some 5mm plastic packers cut roughly to length when I forgot to pick up some domino's when I was assembling a unit on site

Yes, that's a (badly installed) worktop bolt. The other end (the top in your pic) will have a nut on it which you loosen to remove the bolt. However the two bits of worktop will be joined with some kind of sealant as well - usually like a thick PVA glue. You will need to carefully break the joint. ...

You will struggle to find softwood 12" wide. Best to edge join several pieces or just buy a piece of pine furniture board

As above. Once they've gone then there is nothing you can do other than replace. Is it close to the sink, or does a kettle often get placed there? These are common causes of blown joints.

mmm - that might be someone else here

one day they might post up some photos, but they are waiting for the customer to send across a couple when the dec's are finished.

Welcome to the forum Neal. I've taken the liberty of removing the link to what is presumably your business as you haven't taken a moment to introduce yourself first. We are happy for members to link to their business websites but only if they actually contribute to the forum in some small way first.

Welcome to the forum. If I had to do it exactly as you have shown, I'd rip the piece of wood in two, one piece 20mm wide the other 35mm wide and then using a core box router cutter in a router mounted in a table I'd route a semi circular groove in each piece and then stick them back together using ...

will1983 wrote:I would do similar but as its just for a cable and therefore doesn't necessarily need to be a circular hole I would just cut two pieces, then cut a groove in one of the mating faces with the table saw and then glue it back together.

I agree.

Welcome to the forum. If I had to do it exactly as you have shown, I'd rip the piece of wood in two, one piece 20mm wide the other 35mm wide and then using a core box router cutter in a router mounted in a table I'd route a semi circular groove in each piece and then stick them back together using c...

will1983 wrote:With a bench top of that size you shouldn't need a cross member at the top of the legs, the top itself will do the same job. Just the one about 6" from the floor should be fine.

Except that having a cross member at the top will make it easier to attach the leg to the top.

A quick google will show you plenty of examples - basically a cross member at the top to attach to the bench and second approx 1/3 up. You could attach a sheet of ply to the back, but some diagonal cross braces between the apron and the legs would do the same job.

Welcome to the forum. That is a nice looking bench you have picked up. If it were me, I would make two pairs of H frame legs one larger than the other to accommodate the tail vice. I'd then attach 4 x 2's between them on the lower cross bar of the H to prevent racking and then put a piece of ply on ...

welcome. do a search on here as I am sure that there have been threads in the past with people building their own workshops. my only comment would be that if you haven't got a clue where to start then building a 10 x 16 workshop is quite ambitious. you might be better getting a cheaper shed and upgr...

see my reply to your other (almost) identical thread.

welcome to the forum. if you only have a small table saw then I would strongly suggest not trying to cut sheet plywood on it. either get your supplier to cut it to size - most timber yards offer this service, or if you are going to be doing a lot of work with sheet materials look at buying a plunge ...

nobody can see the image. you can't post images until you have made a couple of posts to prevent too much spam.

welcome to the forum. As a precaution, you will have to make a couple more posts before you can post images.

I had a similar experience with an Industrial Chip Collector / Dust extractor from Axminster. Admittedly it was a customer return, but when the motor went pop a few months after I got it I was told a replacement would take a couple of months to come from China or I could pay an extra £150 and have i...

As above, wait another 3 years and then the moisture content will be approaching 10% at which point hopefully it will have stopped shrinking. Cracks would best be filled with epoxy resin

you can also buy an arbour and a pair of grooving cutters from wealden which I think is what I did. https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Heavy_Duty_64.html

welcome to the forum. you could try osmo raw, which I have used on some light woods with some success, but any oil will change the colour to a certain extent. The only other option would be to spray it with a lacquer.

welcome to the forum. if you want a router to use in a router sled then you should definately look for a larger one with a 1/2" collet. You can then, if you wish, use collet adaptors to use router bits with a smaller diameter shaft. routers to look for would be something like the Trend t10, dewalt D...

thanks for the update. I would strongly recommend not adding any more coats as the manufacturer only recommends 2 and you may get issues with it not drying fully.

180g would be ok, just don't go coarser than 120g. Colour will be similar. When you apply the osmo do a thin coat, leave a couple of minutes and then wipe off any excess with paper towels. It should be touch dry. Leave a day and apply a 2nd coat as above.

Be very careful sanding the table unless you are 101% sure that it is solid beech. In all likelihood it is a veneer which will be less than 1mm thick. The white spirit should remove the excess oil, and once dry I personally would just very lightly hand sand with 120g paper. Osmo Polyx is widely avai...

Welcome to the forum. You have to post a few times before posting photos. Regarding your table, teak oil is generally used for garden furniture. Any idea what the finish was originally? I suspect you may have to clean the oil off with white spirits and start again. My preference would be to use osmo...

welcome to the forum. If you post a couple more times you will be able to post a picture which might help in advising on the best course of action.

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