Woodwork UK

davidpidge

Nice one. Good luck with it!

davidpidge

Oh. And buy a pocket hole jig.

davidpidge

Hi Will. I love the cat. Nice angle that will appeal to people who want to use a small local business that has heart. Honestly I don't think a website is much use for bringing in new work but that's just personal experience. I used to use myBuilder.com which will give you an endless source of door h...

davidpidge

Have you had this saw for a while? Fancy posting a quick review?
Even though I was really impressed with this saw when they released it I would probably go for the kapex 120 for the extra capacity.

davidpidge

Congratulations on getting a book published! It looks like a huge amount of effort has gone into it from looking at the excerpt.

davidpidge

Figured it out i think. Couple of overlapping screws.

davidpidge

Hi all,
How does the guide bush fit in the makita rp0900 1/4" router? Is it just a push fit?

davidpidge

I appreciate the reply. Cheers!
I'll put up some photos of the finished article.

davidpidge

If its for finishing before spraying, surely you want the 3mm stroke?

davidpidge

The fridge is going in the far left unit...

davidpidge

mark270981 wrote:Integrated fridges don’t tend to have a cabinet housing, just a space for the fridge to slot into which is then fixed to the worktop above.

This is a tall fridge and the kitchen has in frame doors so the fridge will be going in a full carcass.

davidpidge

I can't find the photo but my mother-in-law had a parlour farm kitchen fitted. I'm sure they had an integrated fridge with the sliding brackets for the door and the door (24mm) was hung on flush hinges like all the other doors.

davidpidge

Hi all, I'm trying to design the cabinet housing an integrated fridge but there doesn't seem to be any drawings/info on the best way. I see there are 2 types of fridge hinge so one type has the cabinet door on concealed hinges and has the sliding brackets to open the fridge/cabinet door together (th...

davidpidge

Grass tiomos range is comparable to blum but don't use their runners.

davidpidge

Do you have space for a panel saw? To cut 8x4 panels on the length you'll need a minimum 2.8m sliding table I think. I suppose it depends how often you will rip full sheets. If only once in a while you could probably live with setting up some roller stands or something and then you'd only need a sma...

davidpidge

davidpidge

'table saw' could mean a few different things. What are you using it for? Mainly ripping large timber or general workshop duties?

davidpidge

There's a company called shaker 2 go that i follow on instagram. They look decent.

davidpidge

Bighat wrote:I get mine from Nelson Butler's in Horncastle, can be hit and miss on stock though.

Thanks I'll give them a try. Other suppliers have suggested that getting a regular supply would be tricky.

davidpidge

I used probox for a job. Not sure how their prices compare because i didn't shop around but the drawers were stunning and delivered on a pallet wrapped up like they were the crown jewels. All bespoke sizes so pricey.

davidpidge

Thanks for the tip. His website is hilarious. Worth a read at least!

davidpidge

Scrape off the resin thats seeping out and seal the knots with knotting.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/ronseal-colr ... 25ml/50926
Sand then stain/varnish.

davidpidge

Bump. If no one wants this blade its going in the bin.

davidpidge

Hi all I have a recently acquired Sedgwick 10” planer thicknesser. Any thoughts would be appreciated Where are you located? I have the mb with the adjustable outfeed table which makes it much easier to set up. Is it just setting the blades parallel in the block your struggling with? Snipe in the th...

davidpidge

I was going to switch from American Tulip to American maple (from Timbersource, Shepton Mallet) but would prefer a native timber. UK oak seemed a bit OTT but sycamore seemed to tick all the boxes and seems to be similar to maple. Interesting timbers are my closest specialist for native hardwoods but...

davidpidge

Cheers, I think smooth ash edging will be fine but unfortunately I don't have a bag press to veneer my own panels. I do know a company that can do it for me though so that'll be the way to go now.
Thanks for that link. Not sure why I couldn't find that when I searched for rough edging.

davidpidge

Thanks for all the info James. What did you do about edging? Did you need a bag press for the face veneers? This is for some window shutters in a clients bathroom. I made the bathroom furniture a while ago with the vanity doors and cistern cover being 'bandsawn' ash but I did it all solid and got th...

davidpidge

Hi all,
Anyone used a rough sawn veneer or know where I can get it on birch ply with matching edging?
Like this...
http://www.the-veneer.com/veneers/rough-cut/

Cheers
David

davidpidge

A workmate won't be big enough. Just build your own workbench as thats a good first project anyway. Some 4x2 and mdf/ply and some screws/coach bolts.
You're going to need a drill/driver and some clamps for nearly project.

davidpidge

9fingers wrote:It is slightly strange having a on half a slot on the right. Other ones on ebay have a full length slot.

Bob

There's a piece of metal laying in the right hand slot. Probably meant to have a mitre guage attached.

davidpidge

I would assume about £250-£500 if it had its rip fence and riving knife and the table was cleaned up.
Ebay has a 'completed listings' option which might help you out.

davidpidge

I've got a midi because its light (easy to move around and can still clip a stack of systainers to the top) and i got one for £250 but I wish I had a ctm36 so i dont have to empty it so often and itd have the finer filter for cutting MDF.
Its all down to budget.

davidpidge

What tools do you have? You'll probably need to groove the sides for the base in whatever type of drawer you make. This will involve a router table but at least a router.

davidpidge

I use the 7.5mm sleeves with spade supports or flush bookcase strips.

davidpidge

Hard maple is approximately double the cost of tulipwood from my usual supplier.

davidpidge

Interestingly (up for debate) the tulipwood i just picked up for my latest kitchen is the good stuff. Heavier (denser) than some of the really pale/green coloured stuff with a darker greyish colour. Big flat straight boards as well. Must be a different saw mill.

davidpidge

We switched from tulip to paint grade maple about 3 years ago. Way better in most regards but you need sharp cutters. We buy around 2 meters a month from Latham’s, paid £890 a meter last week. Thanks for the info. Was that for sawn or par boards? Lovely website by the way. Noticed you have an image...

davidpidge

podengo wrote:Ive used paint grade maple, it cleans up well, no fluffy, woolly issues you get with tulip.

Cheers. Whos your supplier? I know what you mean about the furry tulipwood. Another reason to switch.

davidpidge

rhrwilliams wrote:I know it’s like chalk and cheese ! The joke is if you have 3 phase you can get large industrial machines for peanuts where as the light trade / diy stuff is bloody expensive

But they've potentially had a harder life. A joinery workshop saw might do 6 hours every day for years.

davidpidge

David - I have used Maxcut2 and it's not at all bad for a downloadable freebie. My favourite though is Smart2DCutting . On first impressions it seems very good. Seems like it will be quick once materials library is set up etc. More importantly, the cut list plug in for Sketchup that I downloaded ca...

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