Woodwork UK

woodsmith

Fantastic job, I hope you have an appreciative customer. It's put me to shame, I've just bought in a flat pack staircase!

woodsmith

If you want to replicate the interlocking toothed joint you get on some log cabins you would need a decent spindle moulder with a power feed.

woodsmith

I'm affected by epoxy too and when I have to use it I use gloves and a carbon mask designed for solvents. Makes it manageable as the mask completely removes the smell.

woodsmith

6mm MDF! That's what I use anyway. Mine gets absolutely hammered with spots of paint and glue and various gouges, when it gets too bad I just flip the board over or replace it if it's already been flipped. I give it a coat of wax to help resist glue and it's like a new bench.

woodsmith

I managed with a garage sized workshop for years, then moved and got a double garage sized workshop where I could fit a proper bench, chop saw, small table saw, bandsaw and planer thicknesser. I now have about about 700 square ft and squeeze in a small panel saw, a spindle, router table, lathe, a di...

woodsmith

If they can't normally be seen then I leave them. You can get a plug cutter that makes dowels that fit into the holes and I think you can buy ready made dowels for filling pocket holes if you don't like the idea of having the holes exposed.

woodsmith

Being able to sharpen them is probably the most important aspect of using hand tools. Diamonds stones are very good and not too expensive but there is quite a skill in using them.

woodsmith

Well done, they look very impressive

woodsmith

You could get a core bit, they do them 127mm that I know of, and cut more of a tooth shape into each of the tips. If the wood is green I would think it would work as you are going into end grain so you need more of a chisel shaped tooth. You would have to drill so far then chop out the core then dri...

woodsmith

A wax, on its own, finish soon marks. A diluted and applied thinly varnish as 9fingers suggests is good or you could use Osmo Polyx, again applied thinly in several coats.

woodsmith

I agree with Roger as I assume the board isn't absolutely flat so cutting a groove would be very difficult. I think you are going to struggle doing this, ideally you would need a bag press as the veneering would need to be perfect or water will get underneath. Personally, especially if the board has...

woodsmith

It's good to see that others c*ck things up even when they have devised a foolproof system. I thought it was just me!

woodsmith

In my house one of the windows was obviously cocked up when they made it because they cut the tenon off and then just glued the opening light together. It lasted over 10 years and I only found out when I had to replace the glass and it fell apart so I should imagine these windows will last as long a...

woodsmith

Roger, I found the heat from the iron could shrink the veneer so it cracked along the grain. We're only talking tiny cracks but they showed up when I applied the finish. It probably depends on the make of veneer and the veneer itself how successful the process is. I was using ash and it was a long t...

woodsmith

I did try iron on veneer once without much success. I must admit I've avoided veneering whenever possible but when I've been forced to do it I've cut my own ( very thick) veneer which makes the job a whole lot easier. You really need a drum sander though to get the wood thin and even enough.

woodsmith

Why not paint them with car paint? That way you can do them almost any colour you like and should find one to match the speaker cloth. I think if you want to stain it you might have to veneer it first as ply doesn't normally look good enough stained.

woodsmith

I too would have thought a black paint would be your best option. The cabinet and ply does need to be perfect though as it will magnify every tiny imperfection. When I made a cabinet for a musical instrument I covered it with 2 pack filler and sanded it down to a normally good finish then got wet an...

woodsmith

cheddarman wrote: ↑
Thu Jan 23, 2020 4:51 pm
I've only got (small) ¼" spindle bits and there are only two collets, ¼" & ⅜" and this was definitely the ¼" one!!

But if it was lose as you said then something was wrong. I've seen router bits that were less than 1/4inch for sale so it would be worth checking them.

woodsmith

The collet should be a good fit on the router bit before you tighten it. If it was lose then the collet was the wrong size for the bit and this would account for it snapping.

woodsmith

Lathams in Dudley have a very good range of sheet material but I'm not sure if they are trade only.

woodsmith

In theory what doesn't kill you makes you stronger, but I'm not so sure

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woodsmith

We've are just in the process of taking the ceiling down in the workshop as rats and or squirrels have been nesting in the insulation and made one hell of a mess but the biggest problem is bees! They have made nests in the insulation and everything is covered in a vast amount of smelly sticky honey....

woodsmith

The filler you linked to is just that and only suitable for filling small cracks etc. as it has absolutely no structural strength.

woodsmith

You said you liked a challenge, but did you expect it to be this challenging

woodsmith

Your plan looks like a lot of hard work to get right and I would be concerned that over time a gap is likely to open up between the bullnose and the veneered transition marker. Your scheme is akin to the nosing at the top of a flight of stairs and it's rare to find one that doesn't rock!

woodsmith

I thought this is what you wanted to achieve?

woodsmith

I'd find a straight grained length of oak at least 25mm wider than the final moulding width. Rip about a 15mm width off it, plane to 12mm and see if it will bend round the shape you need. Thickness it until it does bend happily then screw it in place. You now have the thickness you need so rip the r...

woodsmith

Have you thought about laminating the bullnose? It's quick and relatively easy to do and, if you cut the laminates from a single piece of stock, you can make it so the joints are more or less invisible.

woodsmith

Roger do you know if this finish is for new wood only or if it would go on flooring that's been Osmo'd years ago. Love the idea of odour free and quick drying. Sorry, Keith, but you're out of luck. Bare wood only. Thanks, that's a pity as I've developed an allergy to Osmo and can't use it or any of...

woodsmith

Roger do you know if this finish is for new wood only or if it would go on flooring that's been Osmo'd years ago. Love the idea of odour free and quick drying.

woodsmith

Can you not get the wood ready t&g? Alternatively you could find a local joiner who would be willing to machine it for you.

woodsmith

Hi Jase, that would be great, especially as I've just been informed she would like a few, which probably means four!

woodsmith

It's a DeVilbiss ADV-G510-18, Advance gravity gun kit TT, the compressor is a 50 litre, 3hp, belt driven nominally 13 cu ft/min and I have a wall mounted pressure regulator in the spray room so I can set the pressure to suit the paint I'm using. Can't say that I would recommend this gun though, it d...

woodsmith

I've got a DeVilbiss HVLP gun which works from a compressor and I get quite a bit of overspray so I assume the dedicated HVLP systems like the Earlex must create less?

woodsmith

Most of the woodworking magazines have closed, i think there is only The Woodworker left but no idea if it's any good any more. I'd look to see if you can find some back issues, you might get a few years worth for the price of a couple of new mags.

woodsmith

Very nice job, everyone should be well pleased.

woodsmith

I'd use 4" throughout. A 2HP extractor isn't anything like powerful enough for 6" pipe, the airflow is reduced and larger particles drop out of the airflow and gradually build up in the pipe. I have a 3HP extractor and use 4" for everything. My advice is to try to use slow bends rather than 90* elbo...

woodsmith

I think it would be worth trying to repair this as I would think it would be all but impossible to remove this section of worktop and replace it unless they didn't glue the joint at all. I would get as much of the soft core out as possible using a very fine blade and a vacuum cleaner. Squeeze glue u...

woodsmith

I would think you could just drill this hole by hand, it's only 165mm deep if you drill from each end. I'd get some softwood and have a practice at drilling before having a go with the real thing.

woodsmith

You need a panel saw to cut 8x4 sheets safely but as Steve said it's easy enough with a track saw or circular saw. The trick is supporting the board and for that I use an 8x4, 50mm thick sheet of foam, not the foil sided stuff just insulation slab which you can get from BnQ. Set the depth of the cut...

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