Woodwork UK

rich3911

I have 4 joists that had rot in the ends. I have taken out the rotten wood and sprayed the timbers. Question is what the best way to repair the ends? I think I have two options. 1: try and make a diagonal cut right through the joist, inside the loft, just before it emerges to the outside and make a ...

rich3911

I want to use this joint to make a three piece corner mitre joint (glued). No sure the best, quickest and most accurate way to cut it such that I can do many repeated joints (A cube frame with these joints would need 24 cuts in all) I have a mitre saw and a combi machine. I am thinking I may be able...

rich3911

Maybe they've all died in horrible woodworking accidents...

rich3911

Well I can thorughly recommend Brigg Taylor at www.profiledesigntooling.com

Fast turn around, a lot cheaper than the other place, blades fit perfectly, no slop.

About half the price of Whitehill too.

rich3911

I haven't bought blades for the tenon block before so wasn't sure. Turns out the guy supplying the blades was using blanks that were cr@p. I sent the blades back and got a refund. Trying someone else now, who was already aware of dodgy blanks. The fit is supposed to be 0.1mm worst case. So the blade...

rich3911

I have had some blades made for a 30mmx175mm tenon block. The fit of the blades on the locating pins is really loose. Shouldn't they be a snug fit? I can't see how the blade can be accuately set if it flops about all over the place? I checked the hole diameter at 6.37 mm so its a big clearance on a ...

rich3911

How tight should the blades in a 30mm tenon cutter block fit onto the locating pins?

I have just got a set and the limiters are a nice snug fit. No slack. The cutters are a very slack fit and therefore hard to get set square.

I don't think that's right?

rich3911

Thanks chaps! The windows on the weather beaten side are worst of course and having the cavities filled with beads hasn't helped. Yes I know, it was 12 years or so ago and no one mentioned the damp and rot issues that it would cause at the time! If I take the window frames out, I'll be getting the ...

rich3911

Forgot who mentioned Deventer seals, but these seem like a good idea. They sit of the corners so seal the sash sides and edges.

Anyone used them?

rich3911

4-8-4 is a little mean. Could you not increase the spacing a bit more ?>. End up with, say, total width 20mm? Argon gas as well ? 4/8/4 was with Krypton so U value of 1.2 Every dimension is up for debate at the moment LOL! Not sure about how much clearance I should allow around the sash either. (ma...

rich3911

Yikes, all I said was 'how much is Accoya these days?'

LOL!

Apparently you can't buy Custard Creams in Belgium anymore...

rich3911

I fit a brush seal into the staff bead and outer frame then use a gasketed parting bead . I agree the brushes do get dirty over time and are a pain when re painting but i dont think a rubber gasket is a better solution . Once it gets damaged or ages i think it will cause bigger problems with snaggi...

rich3911

I know there are a few threads on this, but just thought I'd ask again for this specific job. This is the profile I want to cut for a sash rail: tenon.jpg I can cut the 10mm x 39mm slot with my wobble saw. It cuts a pretty clean groove, with a few tiny ridges at the bottom. For the 30 degree scribed...

rich3911

thatsnotafestool wrote: ↑Mon Feb 01, 2021 11:58 am Excellent news and thanks for updating us on your progress.

When you say Felder Group I'm guessing you mean the one now on groups.io. I missed your thread !

Yes. Martin Guiver and Paul Curme on there were extremely helpful!

rich3911

From what I've read/seen the tables need to be dead level with each other (before setting the correct heights). YES they do How critical is getting the tables exctactly planar with each other? Very There is adjustment on the hexagonal rail the tables clamp down onto but I don't see any obvious adju...

rich3911

Thanks chaps! The windows on the weather beaten side are worst of course and having the cavities filled with beads hasn't helped. Yes I know, it was 12 years or so ago and no one mentioned the damp and rot issues that it would cause at the time! If I take the window frames out, I'll be getting the b...

rich3911

I was hoping to get some knives for my Trend 40mm cutter block to do Ovolo beading with. Just had a look at the Trend site and there are hardly any shown.

Is this just a thing with Trend or is sort of tooling falling out of favor?

I assume I can put Whitehill blades in a Trend block?

rich3911

Very impressive repair! Is there a point where you would decide to replace whole frame components rather than scarf in smaller sections? Our frames have been repaired before, possibly a long time ago though, and are due for replacement or repair. This is typicalof what we have. I'm still tossing up ...

rich3911

Any recommendations which seals to use on wood sliding sashes? I don't like brush seals on parting beads etc as they get dirty and look pants after a while. I have seen some drawings showing Q-lon seals fitted into the sides of sash frames, in some cases on the side of the frame against the sash box...

rich3911

I assumed you'd do it in one piece! I only asked as I was looking at some windows I had made for me a while ago and saw, to my horror, that the horns were put on 'afterwards'! LOL! A jig to hold the stiles vertical is a great idea. Saves messing about on the bandsaw. We exchanged posts nearly 2 yea...

rich3911

Hi Rich, I've always made the horns part of the stiles rather than fixing additional parts on which to my mind wouldn't be good for longevity. When I machine them on the spindle I think It may be the whitehill cutter number 616 I use most of all,link below. I planed up a piece of hardwood abour 500...

rich3911

I make a lot of sah windows but the tooling I use most for them is a rebate block,10mm groover (I groove the ouside and inside lining and rebate the sash pully stiles so the linings locate on the pully stiles.. Ovolo mouldings in general for the sashes but occasionally lambs tongue and bevels. I al...

rich3911

Any advice for tooling to make sash windows?

I have a big Felder spindle moulder ready and waiting.

I see that there are complete 'systems' to cut the mouldings to include seals etc. Are these worth the money?

rich3911

I'm getting my BF-6 that I bought a while ago ready to use. I've just been checking the planer tables and found that they are both tipping slightly inwards towards the cutter block. From what I've read/seen the tables need to be dead level with each other (before setting the correct heights). The ma...

rich3911

Like this: 20190209_165516 venetian3.jpg and as now: 20190209_165516 (Medium).jpg Yes, you could make the centre sashes a touch wider but up to you but they would look in keeping with the double boxframe above the ground floor window. Personally its a venetian all the way for me but as I said its j...

rich3911

Like this:

and as now:

rich3911

and with the middle sash boxes back in...

I could certainly add some detailing to the outer linings to make them less plain...

rich3911

Hmmm not sure that works as the window is very wide in proportion to the height. Might look better on a taller or narrower opening?

rich3911

I might photoshop them in and see what it looks like with venetian sytle windows... 20190209_165516 (Medium).jpg These are the windows that all need doing... eventually. 20190209_165529 (Medium).jpg 20190209_165609 (Medium).jpg You can see there are 4x triples and we have two bays: 20190209_165553 (...

rich3911

As you plan on making a huge saving making the windows yourself why not get a costing on heritage units it will help to keep your window in character and narrower rebates will help keep the meeting rails slimmer, i read that thicker units have double reflections and bulges from pressure and ruin th...

rich3911

promhandicam wrote:Go for it. in the past UKW mods were a bunch of tossers - partly why this forum started. it used to be the case that WWUK was more trade orientated and UKW hobby, but no idea what UKW is like now as I've not visited in ages.

Ha! I thought I had read about 'the other place' on here.

rich3911

Looking at a modern sash windows, they apprear to use 57mm rails and stiles. The frames are about 160mm deep. So if I went to those dimensions, I'd loose 20mm of reveal. Not too bad. Got this from planning today: " planning permission would not be required to replace a complete sash with anothe...

rich3911

Pretty sure a 16mm softcoat argon/kryton gas filled unit will get you well within regs Google a U value sealed unit chart, yes to 15mm rebate and a 3mm gap all round the unit. You said you got 40mm thick sashes I would thicken them to 44mm if your going to totally renew the window. Not keen on exte...

rich3911

Newbie question: Is it considered bad form to post the same question here and on ukworkshop, or just slightly annoying for anyone who reads both?

(and now a real dilema, should I post this question on ukworkshop....)

rich3911

I'm working out the profile of sash stiles and rails when using double glazing and wanted to do a quick sanity check. Looking at U-value requirements (unless the planning dept say otherwise), I will need a 22mm thick unit. Allowing 2mm either side for window tape. Aiming for a stile/rail width of 45...

rich3911

I agree the mullions are big and seeing as I only want the middle sash to open, I could run the sash cords along the top of the head and into the outside sash boxes. Can't do venetian, even though I like the look of them as our Orangery has equal size triples too. (but not sashes, just fixed casemen...

rich3911

Rich With a felder you will need a minimum of a chip extractor as the cutters will block up and seriously effect the timber finish. modern machines are designed to work with extraction as they throw all the spoil in the direction of a 100/125mm pipe OK good point! I didn't even realise there was a ...

rich3911

Ha! I am currently in the lead on that machine.... Not sure what it will go to though. I'm going to have a look at it tomorrow. Its an oldie but a good solid machine. If I win it, the seller has offered to give me some training. Many thanks for the offer to visit. The dust extractor would be very u...

rich3911

Hi You would not go far wrong with this (or something like) at the right price https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FELDER-BF6-26-Combination-Woodworking-Machine-on-360-degree-turntable-240-v/273681270438?hash=item3fb8acc6a6:g:G~gAAOSw7C5cVDNl:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true I'm on my third combi the last two b...

rich3911

You can buy redwood Vac Aqua treated profiles from here http://www.expresstimberproducts.co.uk/index.php?page=Sash---Case-Window-Sections, not what i would go for myself because the treatment doesnt go right through the wood so any cuts you make ie: mortice and tennon joints... infact any cuts you ...

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