Woodwork UK

Fantastic craftsmanship ! Looks lovely !

Good idea doing a dry run . Ive got a curved template from another job i can try it on . Problem is , i dont want to move the settings on the spindle moulder until ive got the go ahead on the work .

For example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Startrite-Thicknesser/184170693595?hash=item2ae16dc3db:g:z48AAOSwNhNeRsOa https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/planer-with-thicknesser-attachment/324081014146?hash=item4b74bbd582:g:OnEAAOSwb39d~fkF Not great but with these two you can prep sawn timber . Probably one of t...

There are bargains to be had , you just need to keep an eye on ebay and let everyone know you are after machines . Also be willing to travel to collect them although you can get things put on a pallet for about £100 .

My thinking was if i have the power feed pushing against the fence and pointing slightly towards the machine bed then it would push the work both ways and keep the work tight to the curved bed and the fence while feeding forward . I will only be using the spindle to do the moulding on the curved bla...

kind of what im thinking Bob . Support top and bottom against the fence with the timber/architrave fixed to a backer between them .

Thinking more about this , to do an ogee architrave im going to have to support it on a curved sled aswell as a curved base . There is going to be very little timber once the moulding is cut and as its quite deep i think it will need two passes .
Thoughts ?

Cheers for the pictures mate . I'm gonna have to have a go at this even if its just for fun

Is there a reason both of you dont use a power feed to do this ?

Ive ended up spacing my machines 4 ft apart but in a space i can walk down between them . Between each machine is 8ft in front and behind . They are basically staggered each side of the space . My main square workshop is a bit wasted to be honest as it doesnt work very well . The table saw , extract...

Figured it would take a while to make the templates and machine the parts . Add to that the cost of the cutters its about £800 . CNC can do it for the same money but wheres the fun in that ! The other option is to do it with plaster . Cant be that hard but messy and not as fun as doing it in timber ...

I'll probably need to do ten to get it right !
Labour wise , thats cool . I'm just messing around in my shed like ive always done . Just bigger machines now and adding another string to my bow .

Thanks mate . I was thinking along those lines but the reverse arch made my mind fart .
Your picture

I'm trying to work out the best way to do the arched parts on this architrave . https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49572438568_005f08a91c_c.jpg Its three parts and most of it can be done with a bearing guided cove cutter in a router but the outer part is a 90mm deep section ogee . I'll be getting t...

As big as you can and then double it .

Oh the old " contagious disease " excuse eh !

Cheaper one here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Transwave-Si ... wwyxePy5~

Ive never taken one that far apart before to be able to tell you . You could still run that one in your workshop with a phase converter . I used my BER2 with a static phase converter and now use the EPA with a rotary phase converter . Static starts the machine at three phase and then drops to single...

Thats a BER 1 or 2 . Buy it ! My EPA is badged as Wadkin supplied by Cooksley . Cooksley where local to me and i guess a main supplier of machines for London and the South in the 40's and 50's etc .I guess the two companies merged at some point or just did business in some way . The 5 blocks and rin...

There is a shaft on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spindle-moul ... whbZd8Vfb

Youll be the luckiest man on earth if it fits but its worth sending the seller a message with a few questions .

Before you throw money at it think about what you will want to do with it . I know you said t and g and it will probably do that all day long BUT at single phase it is 1.5 HP . 3 phase its 2 HP according to the pictures you have just posted . Getting a spindle made is going to cost a few quid . I gu...

Yes , the two others are for the EPA but they all fit the same with the bolt screwing down to hold them in place . The BER2 is a 1" bore The EPA 1-1/4"
If you have a 30mm spindle it must have been made by someone aftersales as i would think the tradesman would be 1" bore .

I dont think so . My spindles are like this

Once dropped into place you place a capping bolt over the spindle and screw that onto the shaft to hold the spindle in place .

Ouch ! I think your best bet is to look out for a donor machine . Having said that you may find the tradesman under powered so may be better off looking for a larger machine . My BER2's are ok but i have to take extra passes for things like cill sections . I guess it depends what you are wanting to ...

Not sure to be honest . From memory the Tradesman is before the BER RS . I also have an EPA and the RS spindle and locking nut wont fit that . I think if you can check if your locking nut is ok you should be able to buy a new 30mm spindle . I have some wadkin info somewhere and i'm sure i saw the tr...

Scott and sargeant may have one or speak to Dalton who bought Wadkin out but i think the best bet is keep an eye on ebay .
I have some RS parts as i have 2 of them . Not sure i have a spare complete spindle and locking nut though .
What size spindle do you need ?

Yay ! Now just the other side of the hall to do

Do they want to dowel it back together again

Its not a chemical to be messed about with thats for sure . Full overalls , respirator , goggles and gloves . This is the water based version , the solvent based one was banned about 25 years ago , if you got that on you it would burn your skin ! Its the stuff you need for rot and wood worm but idea...

No not the fella in the lime mankini but the chemical used to treat dry rot , wet rot and wood worm . Ive been to look at a job where i suspect i'm going to find dry rot when i remove the windows . I did my apprenticeship with a dry rot company so know what chemicals where used but thought the sale ...

There is a slight camber on the blades but boy does it get them sharp . I finished them of by flatting the backs on my diamond stone and then stropping on a leather strop with astonish oven cleaner ( a gift and tip from Mel ) I cut my fingers a few times fitting them . The chain runs around the whol...

Ive posted this before but thought as i was sharpening my planer blades i'd share it again . A blast from the 1940's

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMUbKrO9Xl0

Ive never used that method . I normally just put an extra stud in if needed .

and made out of champions finest hardwood Meranti /Luan

Only 1" :lol: I'm doing the whole floor in concrete . I plan to insulate the area and make new gates for the back . Probably smaller than i have now as the ones i have span 12ft and i never open 2 of them . I want to brick that part up and maybe have 6ft of gates . If i can make it secure enough i w...

Makes my problem seem minor :shock: I removed the wedges and jack yesterday to get some concrete under the front of the saws support leg . I must admit i did a little bit of wee when i removed the wedges :o https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49403516336_bd6fc79646_c.jpg Just the other support to do...

I kind of answered my own questions when writing this so cracked on doing it properly . well , kind of properly https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49373770501_df4e50ba4e_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49381073557_087744956c_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49388612472_096682d386...

Bit of a problem in the workshop . The roof out the back where i have the wall saw has been leaking for a long long time . I dont really use the area so it never bothered me until i noticed the wall saw wasnt quite level :shock: The floor has rotted and its falling ! Ive managed to support it ( pict...

Picked up a 55 x 100 1-1/4 bore block off ebay , £42 delivered . Gave the machine its first job today , it's a beast !

Try Beltability . 0175352202

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