Woodwork UK

nickw

Put it in the way round that "it seems to do nothing". If correctly installed it will prevent the wood from being spat out backwards by the cutting blades, and you can test this before firing up the motor by inserting a piece of wood in the normal direction (with the cutter set to a height where it ...

nickw

$400! That's outrageous!

nickw

A cabinet scraper makes a fast job of it.

nickw

DROs are a must

nickw

It's a workbench. What does a bit of discolouration matter?

nickw

Are these too small?
http://smartboxmaker.com/smarthinge-2/

nickw

Got one - though an older model. Does the job. Happy with it.

If you're going to be using 8x4s get one with the big slider.

nickw

What is it standing on? Is there enough air circulation on the bottom? Try standing it on edge.

nickw

If you have a static sander (disc or belt) then you could use that to smooth a rough cut disc (with a band- or jig- saw).

nickw

Or Liberon Lubricating Wax http://www.axminster.co.uk/liberon-lubr ... sel=600221

nickw

Drilling a pilot hole for the nails will also reduce splitting.

nickw

For outdoors I'd use Tricoya. In fact I have - my compost bins are made of it. They've been out there for 2 years now and not a sign of movement.

nickw

With an MDF panel you can afford to make it an exact fit AND glue it.

nickw

How does a PVA floor react to wet feet?

nickw

No. First screw straight through the legs into the centre shelf. Then end shelves are pocket screwed from underneath. Then the top is pocket screwed from the concave side of the legs.

nickw

Richard, Yep, you've got it. The centre shelf was screwed directly through the rebates for the outer shelves. The outer shelves were attached using plugged, pocket-hole style screws from the underside. I used the same method to attach the top, plugged pocket-holes in the back side of the legs.

nickw

riclepp wrote:One question how was the shelving fixed?

In which piece?

nickw

Cheers York33, just the job.

nickw

A few years ago I made a wall-hanging display cabinet for some clients. It is on a French Cleat which was fixed to a nice, solid brick wall. They have now moved to a new-build house and want me to rehang the cabinet for them. I have been told that the new wall is plasterboard over blockwork, with a ...

nickw

As you are going to need 2 templates to account for the differing mortice lengths, why not them them with different widths too, and use the same bit and guide? You might even be able to put pins around the smaller template to locate it using the larger mortice, if you cut that first.

nickw

I few years back I built a unit for a customer as built-in. They have now moved, taking the unit with them. Unfortunately they don't have a matching space in their new house, and want to have the unit freestanding. This means it needs a new end panel made along with a bit of moulding top and bottom....

nickw

FB is good for chatting but it doesn't make a good searchable archive for finding old posts re techniques, projects etc. (IMHO)

nickw

As you're only doing a coupe of metres a scratch stock might be the most cost effective way of achieving this. To do it with router will require a router table setup - if you have one then take a look at Wealden's mini mould cutters, they might be able to do what you want. As well as the cutter you ...

nickw

The traditional way of sealing against smells is to apply a coat or two of shellac.

nickw

I'm thinking of going at some point. Might have to avoid the Sunday though.

nickw

Does anyone know where I can get handles as shown here?

: 2.png (117.2 KiB) Viewed 1953 times

They are simple right angles really, attached to the edge of the door. Dims are 200 x 50mm approx. Brushed brass finish.
TIA.

nickw

Suppliers:
Wealden
Whitehill

What to buy:
If you're a pro buy stuff as and when you have a need for it.
If you're an amateur buy stuff until you run out of credit.

That's how it works, isn't it?

nickw

Sticky Stuff Remover.
No workshop should be without some.

nickw

Sorry, I missed the bit about antique finish. Get the solid brass stuff, strip off any lacquer and treat it with this: http://www.jpennyltd.co.uk/shopping/pgm ... .php?id=50
For the clips you may have to get brass plated ones, but the fluid should still work.

nickw

Hafele or SDS https://www.sdslondon.co.uk/adjustable- ... 829mm.html

nickw

Yes, yes and no.

nickw

I've just delivered a couple of tables that share design cues with this sofa table. This time though the timber is oak and the finish is PolyX. http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q156/NickWebbCabinetMaker/Lloyd%20Tables/_PXK1926%20-%20Web%20Copyright_zpslzj63xdj.jpg http://i135.photobucket.com/album...

nickw

If you can afford the Hammer go for that. Single phase is an option, though a little more expensive. Also if you've got the space (and budget) go for separates, or if that is not on at least try to go for a half-combi and separate planer/thicknesser.

nickw

If you explained to the salesman that you wanted to use flat blades, and he still sold you the machine then he mis-sold it, and you are entitled to return it and get a full refund.

nickw

Yes, keep the pressure on the outfeed table side, but not on any section of the timber that the blades have not yet touched. I.E. only on bits of the timber that have been made flat already.

nickw

There's a new book which the Schwarz is recommending but I haven't seen it myself. http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1940611350/r ... CM6B9RGDAN

nickw

And yet the cable is still trailing over the guillotine!

nickw

Is this any help? http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/a ... nment.aspx

nickw

You could go totally off grid and use rasps. These are particularly good, if a little expensive. Cheaper versions are available.

nickw

http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/s ... riVr8utOMo

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