Woodwork UK

thatsnotafestool

Meccarroll wrote:
thatsnotafestool wrote:Why not pop over to TWH2 as we do have an expert onboard ! No, not me, silly.

That's very nice of you Roger!

LoL

Sorry, Mark...I meant 'in addition to the ones we have here'....

LOL !

thatsnotafestool

Ouch, Steve. Hope you make a speedy recovery, mate.

thatsnotafestool

Why not pop over to TWH2 as we do have an expert onboard ! No, not me, silly.

thatsnotafestool

Any good as a starting point, Mark ?

thatsnotafestool

.... One more thing about the pics above. I kept the mullions either side of the middle sash wide so that they can be sash boxes for the weights. Running the cords over the head to the outer sides means a thinner mullion, but I wasn't sure that looked right? I think a thinner mullion is better as i...

thatsnotafestool

The reason for the dovetail is to maintain the integrity of the joint in case of glue failure ie if the glue fails, the meeting rail isn;t going to pull out when you shut the window. With modern glues I think that is less of a problem. I like thin meeting rails for the reason that Leveller says. The...

thatsnotafestool

Thanks, Mark...yup, all my own work

thatsnotafestool

Was that Russell ?

thatsnotafestool

If it's a refurb then as long as it's no worse than before ...ie replacing double glazing with single glazing ....then I thought BC were out of the frame ? No, you still have to comply but may be able to obtain some form of relaxation from the guidance to the regulation from building control. Inter...

thatsnotafestool

If you had to choose a combination machine, Hammer C3 31 or a Minimax C30 Genius? From what I've read, Minimax is better? But not 100% sure why... Just looked at the photos of the Minimax. There is NO comparison. In term of build quality, ruggedness etc the Hammer wins hands down although like all ...

thatsnotafestool

If it's a refurb then as long as it's no worse than before ...ie replacing double glazing with single glazing ....then I thought BC were out of the frame ?

thatsnotafestool

promhandicam wrote:One of my timber suppliers moulds grooves on the back face of wide mouldings presumably to help prevent cupping - just a thought

Steve...many thanks for the suggestion. Second batch duly stress relieved and no cupping. You're acknowledged over on TWH2 !

thatsnotafestool

thatsnotafestool wrote:Where are you based, Rich?

Ah, my bad, Dorset. You're out of luck as those machines are near Edinburgh !

Ellis is another 'Go-to' book IMO.

thatsnotafestool

Where are you based, Rich?

thatsnotafestool

[.... Unless you're seriously minted it takes years to kit out a workshop enough to do a decent standard or workmanship ..... Depends on your definition of 'seriously minted' ! A Hammer combination machine, although not ideal, could do them. £6k ish ? Or buy secondhand...I'm tempted to ditch my Ham...

thatsnotafestool

Have you searched this site for other threads on sash windows ? There's been quite a lot over the years.

thatsnotafestool

Why not use Sapele instead of Accoya ?

If you do decide to make them yourself and buy a spindle moulder then please, please seriously consider going on a training course on how to use it safely.

thatsnotafestool

On the Cumbria/Northumberland border. Where we get the wet stuff that Cumbria didn't want ....and the wet stuff that Newcastle had had enough of

Has its plusses up here though. We can call Yorkshiremen 'Soft Southern Wussies '

thatsnotafestool

Hi Leveller. Thanks for your excellent suggestions.

I'm also coming round to Sapele as Tricoya apparently is very pricey at the moment. Then use Medite Accoya for the panels.

Re the c*ck bead. Is this what you had in mind ?

thatsnotafestool

Hi chaps LOML wants this back door made for us. georgian door external.png georgian back door inside view.png I was proposing to make the rails and stiles from Tricoya but was wondering about the panels. Would it be better to use Medite Accoya ? Regarding the construction, those panels look flush on...

thatsnotafestool

Got all excited when I saw Cumbria but sadly you're too far away to make economic sense. Lovely work though.

thatsnotafestool

Don't be tempted to chase after every enquiry. If someone wants something made..ask them to send you a photo of the area where it's going to be so that you have a better idea. Before you waste any time visiting or even thinking about it. A lot of the time you'll not get anything back so saving you t...

thatsnotafestool

promhandicam wrote:One of my timber suppliers moulds grooves on the back face of wide mouldings presumably to help prevent cupping - just a thought

That's a great idea, thanks, Steve. Easy enough to run a few grooves over the table saw blade.

thatsnotafestool

I think that if I finesse the ovolo cutter and remove the small straight edge where it starts to cut that wide rebate and then rely on the second cutter to cut the whole rebate (plus accepting a little variance from the original 18th c. design) then that should work. One thing that I do need to do t...

thatsnotafestool

Hey ho...well cockups just kept on multiplying. My original conclusion as to why the cockup turned out to be just as flawed as the original cockup. :oops: For starters even my original SketchUp drawing had the wrong dimensions on 104mm wide and not 107mm as it was supposed to be. But the biggest coc...

thatsnotafestool

Would anyone like to make a curved banister, something like in the photo, for us ?

thatsnotafestool

mark270981 wrote:Seems very complicated to just run off some arcs!

How would you do it ? I need 100m

thatsnotafestool

In a thread on TWH2, I talked about how I went about getting some custom spindle moulder cutters made. But I cocked up. Can you see where ? PM me if you can. To recap This is the architrave I wished to make https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4899/45813015204_2b1cabc9bf_b.jpg My working drawing https://f...

thatsnotafestool

.... I have exploited is the use of a long sliding table with the spindle. when you want to straighten and square large lumps of timber which you would struggle with over the surfacer holding tight to the fence I put a tall block in the spindle and clamp the timber to the slider. gives a perfect sq...

thatsnotafestool

I'm with Steve on this one. Need a proper blade though with the right teeth for carcasses if you're using Conti type board to prevent the edges chipping away.

Also, regardless of blade, a sheet (can be seconds) of Kingspan/whatever on which to lay the board down to cut.

thatsnotafestool

I can't recall (and searching has failed me) which forum I mentioned this on a long time ago but I do recall quite a few suffering as well. Up until this year, as winter drew near and/or I was spending a lot of time in the workshop in the cold, I used to get nasty little splits on my thumbs. Some fo...

thatsnotafestool

Jonathan I'd also thought about adding some wood to support the far end of the fence...it desperately needs it! Does your approach work with a 4 x 1 board upright ...I did try it and it all went a bit ting-tong TBH which is why I liked Katellwood's approach. I like your idea for adding a sacrificial...

thatsnotafestool

Oh yes !! I see where you're coming from...Brilliant idea, thanks.

Need a clapping hand emoticon !

thatsnotafestool

Very nice work,Leveller, but looking at the photoin the OP, I could be wrong but they look about half the width of yours. Would the same approach still work with something as thin?

thatsnotafestool

British Hardwoods do 'hobby' packs that might meet your needs ...

thatsnotafestool

Thanks for the link to that thread which I missed first time round. I'm going to look forward to reading that. It's a good tip but had you thought of a power feeder on your planer ? This is mine with a 4.4m length of timber being prepped for skirting. (bottom LH corner) https://farm5.staticflickr.co...

thatsnotafestool

I can't put my hands on my copy but George Ellis in his excellent book often has details such as this. Do you have a copy ?

thatsnotafestool

Yup..I've also got the Silent Cutter on my Hammer and that IS a nice feature - as are the digital scales/controls. There is a safety interlock I'd have to work round if I didn't use their chute.

I do have a feeling that the Felder I've been looking at is yet another scam.

thatsnotafestool

I agree, Keith, and which is why I'm looking at a dedicated secondhand machine....3 phase I still use my Delta thicknesser that I've had for years especially for very thin stock. But it is pretty knackered now..the rise and fall graunches badly plus it's a bloody noisy screamer. You can't beat an in...

thatsnotafestool

TBH I can't see ANY advantage of a machine with flip-up tables.

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