Woodwork UK

thatsnotafestool

Your old username was Tim, Tim.

thatsnotafestool

....The joiners filled the gap between with window and stone with expanding foam... Thanks Mac That's probably why...bloody Philistines. They should have bedded in with lime mortar set back 5mm or so, let it dry and then dded the burnt sand mastic. You do need the proper sand IME...they probably go...

thatsnotafestool

Hi Mac

Are you sure that that is mastic ? It looks more like cement (or similar) to me. Is your property a period one ? Take a look at using burnt sand mastic..that's the traditional approach.

http://knowledge.masonsmortar.co.uk/kno ... and-mastic

thatsnotafestool

There's a great WIP here, Mark, if you're interested. http://thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=3659

You're absolutely right...it's a beautiful piece

thatsnotafestool

Last time I bought from Lathams in Gateshead I paid 1050 plus vat per cube a few months ago. That was prob for buying 500 quid worth and I'm not a regular customer. Mike That's interesting. Looking back through my emails Latham's are who a local joinery company recommended for hardwood. I think tha...

thatsnotafestool

Jonathan wrote:Rodgers
You could fine that the one wheel on the infeed is the problem......its a bit like putting pressure on the in feed whilst planning.

Doh! That makes a lot of sense.

thatsnotafestool

Thanks for the idea, Jonathan. The feeder has two rollers on the outfeed and one on the infeed. I like the idea of the MDF sled. Will bear it in mind for next time. In the end, I went back to basics and used the planer.

thatsnotafestool

Nice gates.. lovely job there.

Nice Audi too ! Q3 ?

thatsnotafestool

Glad to be of help. Its good that we can all learn from each other, its what forums are for Summats gone pear-shaped ! Help !!! Trying to face off using the spindle moulder but the timber isn't really wide enough to clamp to the sliding table. So I tried using the power feeder (pressing downwards) ...

thatsnotafestool

Just wondering how these have stood the test of time? Did the posts stay upright ?

Fabulous thread and job, by the way.

thatsnotafestool

Personally I find the spined ones easier to control.

thatsnotafestool

It's called irony.

£545

thatsnotafestool

I prefer a simpler style

Seriously, I like it. Trying to convince SWMBO that we need it.

Anyone care to guess how much ?

thatsnotafestool

Hi chaps...any recommendations ? Acrylic or something with loads of VOC's in ? I was planning to lip the edges as belt and braces first or is that a waste of time. It's for a sign that will be outside. It's to tell straying walkers to sod off. Personally I'd prefer three signs ... First one "No...

thatsnotafestool

Oh very nice, mate ...I'm assuming that not too many beers were consumed on the river whilst templating ?

What glue did you use ?

thatsnotafestool

Curious to know how pricing varies across the country.

Up here 3 piece off 5" x 2" x 4.5m cost me £107 + VAT. Works out at about £1250 per cu m

thatsnotafestool

Mark You could save your pennies and buy one of these £43.99 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SwitZer-Wet-and-Dry-Industrial-Vacuum-Cleaner-20-80L-1-2-3KW-Hoover-Steel-Tank/113355635951?hash=item1a6485bcef:m:mngu-oPZrvs6kBP_ukSnMKQ I've got one that I use with my Kapex. Does what it says on the tin. Also ...

thatsnotafestool

Yup, you're doing well to avoid. I'd do cash on collection if the boot of my car was big enough

thatsnotafestool

You might also like to check out some of the DVDs here

http://www.workshopessentials.com/shop/ ... ry&path=35

thatsnotafestool

That's a cracking link, Mark. But I'm curious...are you up in Cumbria then ?

thatsnotafestool

Now don't laugh but .... I also had a bit of an accident a month or so back. The main on/off buttons for the Hammer are in the middle of the machine which entails walking behind the table saw to turn it off. There is an emergency switch on the table saw side but it's one of those that latches and y...

thatsnotafestool

Now don't laugh but .... I also had a bit of an accident a month or so back. The main on/off buttons for the Hammer are in the middle of the machine which entails walking behind the table saw to turn it off. There is an emergency switch on the table saw side but it's one of those that latches and yo...

thatsnotafestool

Meccarroll wrote:
thatsnotafestool wrote:Why not pop over to TWH2 as we do have an expert onboard ! No, not me, silly.

That's very nice of you Roger!

LoL

Sorry, Mark...I meant 'in addition to the ones we have here'....

LOL !

thatsnotafestool

Ouch, Steve. Hope you make a speedy recovery, mate.

thatsnotafestool

Why not pop over to TWH2 as we do have an expert onboard ! No, not me, silly.

thatsnotafestool

Any good as a starting point, Mark ?

thatsnotafestool

.... One more thing about the pics above. I kept the mullions either side of the middle sash wide so that they can be sash boxes for the weights. Running the cords over the head to the outer sides means a thinner mullion, but I wasn't sure that looked right? I think a thinner mullion is better as i...

thatsnotafestool

The reason for the dovetail is to maintain the integrity of the joint in case of glue failure ie if the glue fails, the meeting rail isn;t going to pull out when you shut the window. With modern glues I think that is less of a problem. I like thin meeting rails for the reason that Leveller says. The...

thatsnotafestool

Thanks, Mark...yup, all my own work

thatsnotafestool

Was that Russell ?

thatsnotafestool

If it's a refurb then as long as it's no worse than before ...ie replacing double glazing with single glazing ....then I thought BC were out of the frame ? No, you still have to comply but may be able to obtain some form of relaxation from the guidance to the regulation from building control. Inter...

thatsnotafestool

If you had to choose a combination machine, Hammer C3 31 or a Minimax C30 Genius? From what I've read, Minimax is better? But not 100% sure why... Just looked at the photos of the Minimax. There is NO comparison. In term of build quality, ruggedness etc the Hammer wins hands down although like all ...

thatsnotafestool

If it's a refurb then as long as it's no worse than before ...ie replacing double glazing with single glazing ....then I thought BC were out of the frame ?

thatsnotafestool

promhandicam wrote:One of my timber suppliers moulds grooves on the back face of wide mouldings presumably to help prevent cupping - just a thought

Steve...many thanks for the suggestion. Second batch duly stress relieved and no cupping. You're acknowledged over on TWH2 !

thatsnotafestool

thatsnotafestool wrote:Where are you based, Rich?

Ah, my bad, Dorset. You're out of luck as those machines are near Edinburgh !

Ellis is another 'Go-to' book IMO.

thatsnotafestool

Where are you based, Rich?

thatsnotafestool

[.... Unless you're seriously minted it takes years to kit out a workshop enough to do a decent standard or workmanship ..... Depends on your definition of 'seriously minted' ! A Hammer combination machine, although not ideal, could do them. £6k ish ? Or buy secondhand...I'm tempted to ditch my Ham...

thatsnotafestool

Have you searched this site for other threads on sash windows ? There's been quite a lot over the years.

thatsnotafestool

Why not use Sapele instead of Accoya ?

If you do decide to make them yourself and buy a spindle moulder then please, please seriously consider going on a training course on how to use it safely.

thatsnotafestool

On the Cumbria/Northumberland border. Where we get the wet stuff that Cumbria didn't want ....and the wet stuff that Newcastle had had enough of

Has its plusses up here though. We can call Yorkshiremen 'Soft Southern Wussies '

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