Woodwork UK

thatsnotafestool

Thanks for the photos but I'm after something as sinuous as your other one.

thatsnotafestool

That's fantastic. How did you make the balustrades ?

SWMBO wants me to replace the newels and balustrades with something similar. Where are you based...as I think I'm chickening out seeing the quality of your work.

thatsnotafestool

Yes it does. It will 'chatter' most likely.

thatsnotafestool

On that scale I'd have thought a bow saw or chainsaw more suitable.

Or am I confusing Uncle Tom's Cabin ?

thatsnotafestool

Cutting access holes in floors I use this

And for running down the joints in straight runs, there's a tiny plunging circular saw with a 3" blade that's ideal for the job and very cheap. Can't recall the maker - sorry.

thatsnotafestool

Such a neat, controlled and moreover safe way of doing it. Thx for posting, Mark

thatsnotafestool

One other thought. When choosing your SCMS look out for one with, what I call a trenching facility. Let's you cut only part way down into the wood and no further. Great for making half-lap joints and similar.

thatsnotafestool

For what it's worth, I do very little with hand tools and that bench you see in the background is rarely used. Not being in the best place doesn't help! I use this assembly bench nearly all the time. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49380391786_be61d96004_c.jpg Here's my 'must-have' list Table sa...

thatsnotafestool

You don't need permanent supports. Personally I hate using those roller supports. They flop all over the place and simply don't give the support you need. For my current workshop I made two removeable extensions for the planer/thicknesser. https://live.staticflickr.com/841/28372526057_cc179d27ca_c.j...

thatsnotafestool

I use my Evolution Rage for cutting up pallets for firewood. I wouldn't dream of using it even make a birdbox.

One suggestion for you is to pop over the ukworkshop.co.uk and use their search facility as these question has come up many times in the past. It's as good a place to start your research.

thatsnotafestool

That's a bloody good idea, Keith. I've got enough left over from the Steppes project and my assembly table needs recovering. Give me scope to lay the inserted router table better as well. Win-win.

thatsnotafestool

I think you'll struggle with that budget to buy all the things you're suggesting.

thatsnotafestool

Hi Jas

I'd give it a go. It would good to see someone else also cocking up curved work

thatsnotafestool

Thanks guys

thatsnotafestool

jfc wrote: ↑
Wed Feb 12, 2020 3:27 pm
Yay ! Now just the other side of the hall to do

That's the easy bit. Done in a day.

thatsnotafestool

A friend of mine is the manager at one of the Roman forts up here. They've got a larch that's been felled, very straight and about 400mm dia. They want to cut it into 1m lengths and then make a hole 120mm down the middle and about 300mm + deep. He asked me how to do it and I've not got much of an id...

thatsnotafestool

Back to bare wood as you don't know how the existing finish will react to whatever you're putting on. It's why ROS sanders were invented.

thatsnotafestool

Thanks Mark.

thatsnotafestool

Glueing the nosing assembly for the top step was even trickier due to the tighter radius. Dominos are NOT the right thing to use...DAMHIKT. Bit stupid of me TBH. I'd thought 'more is best' and daily cut domino slots all the way round. But they are cut along radial lines. So as you go round the curve...

thatsnotafestool

I like Chestnut Microcrystalline wax. Seems to repel water quite well. If you want a more tougher surface then Rustins Plastic Coating is god. Don't let the name put you off.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rustins-PCGL10 ... B002HMXR18

thatsnotafestool

Yes provided it's a solid top and not veneered. If the latter then you can still sand etc but take care not to sand through the veneer.

When you say polishing, do you mean French polishing 'cos that is a skill. There's other stuff out there you can use.

thatsnotafestool

While the nosing is being glued down (I used a version of No-Nails as it dries slightly flexible) attention turned to the top step. Having learned a lot from making the bottom step and being a smaller step, it went together much quicker and slicker than the bottom step. Create the subframe with suit...

thatsnotafestool

There's an echo in here

thatsnotafestool

Don't gouge...just veneer over the existing surface.

thatsnotafestool

c*ck up's my second name.

At least that's what my floozy tells me

thatsnotafestool

That's rather cool. Fascinated to understand how that chain rotating in the same direction all the time translates to a forward and back movement of the blade holder.

I've got a few router cutters and chisel need touching up. Can I send them to you ?

thatsnotafestool

The answers to a couple of my concerns have been staring me in the face ! Keeping the nosing assembly in place for gluing and screwing ...sorted ! https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49464712796_7a2ff1bc46_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49464223313_f4472ed327_z.jpg My concern about removi...

thatsnotafestool

Now where were we ? Ah yes ... https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49394001841_92f809afae.jpg A suggestion by my wife prompted a bit of lateral thinking https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49461411716_65e815faa0_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49461642162_23db24a650_z.jpg Turn it into a 'f...

thatsnotafestool

Could have been one from the Cheap Chinese Crap Company. DAMHIKT.

thatsnotafestool

Double check because some cutters are 6mm.

thatsnotafestool

Jas is full of hot air

thatsnotafestool

LOL...my thoughts exactly

thatsnotafestool

The good news or the bad news ? Trimmed the riser and offered up the nosing/transition strip combi. Looks good, eh ? https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49394004026_f575422cc6_c.jpg Um no. A very, bloody, Godawful, sit-in-a-corner hugging myself and sobbing quietly NO. I forgot to factor in the thic...

thatsnotafestool

Hey Roger...thanks for that. Good to hear from you.

thatsnotafestool

I'm a bit surprised this doesn't get more mentions because it really does what it says on the tin. Very easy to apply. No odour. An oiled wood floor in 4 hours. Hard wearing as well. It's green, as well, meeting the European Ecolabel. Tools can be cleaned with water. The only 'downside' - if you can...

thatsnotafestool

If you recall, one issue bothering me was how to secure the riser to the subframe since it couldn't be fixed prior to veneering. Idea 1 was to glue blocks to the inside face and then screw them down to the bottom subframe panel....like so.. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49328785727_c9fbc6846f_...

thatsnotafestool

woodsmith wrote: ↑
Tue Jan 14, 2020 8:45 am
You said you liked a challenge, but did you expect it to be this challenging

In a word.......No !!

thatsnotafestool

So here we have the larger nosing and transition piece (for the bottom step). After my little (ahem) mishap, managed to finesse routing the nosing back to the template plus rounding the corners over with a different cutter. The outside radii in the troublesome area were finished off on the linisher....

thatsnotafestool

Thursday I was planning to work on the riser readying it for finishing but discovered that the veneer had lifted up slightly and buckled right at the far end and so that needed fixing but no further work due to glue setting. This is the main niggle of this project...too many dependencies, waiting fo...

thatsnotafestool

Well done. That small router table was my first one. Does the business. I double-checked my hand trimmer, and you're right ..it does plunge. Sort of. My bad. My gripe about it is that usually when you plunge you need both hands to keep the router where you want it. The knurled knob that this electri...

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