Woodwork UK

thatsnotafestool

Fair enough. Just that this is a very quiet forum and I'd got the impression that you wanted more involvement.

thatsnotafestool

I agree with you. Sides not brilliantly done and curve not right. I need to listen to you more....sincerely. One question are the strings at 90 degrees? A good question and one that is very difficult to answer with any degree of accuracy. The two stringers do not intersect in any meaningful way so ...

thatsnotafestool

Oldboy, if you wanted to get more coverage and input to this thread, perhaps you might like to think about changing the title to Tangent Hand-railing? That way anyone out there on the wider web might get here as a result of a Google search ? Not sure on the best spelling of handrailing or hand-rail...

thatsnotafestool

Many thanks, HL. Not seen you around much these days ?

thatsnotafestool

I agree with you. Sides not brilliantly done and curve not right. I need to listen to you more....sincerely.

thatsnotafestool

Oldboy, if you wanted to get more coverage and input to this thread, perhaps you might like to think about changing the title to Tangent Hand-railing? That way anyone out there on the wider web might get here as a result of a Google search ? Not sure on the best spelling of handrailing or hand-raili...

thatsnotafestool

Oldboy22 wrote: ↑
Tue Apr 13, 2021 5:36 pm

thatsnotafestool wrote: ↑
Tue Apr 13, 2021 4:34 pm
As I said...we work and think in different ways.
Yes we do your not even in the same library let alone the same page.

No need to be so patronising.

thatsnotafestool

As I said...we work and think in different ways.

thatsnotafestool

Oldboy22 wrote: ↑
Tue Apr 13, 2021 3:11 pm
Also if you think about it your neutral zone centre point won’t be correct if your not starting in the centre of both ends.

I disagree. As I said before, there are plenty of books out there that do not mark up the centre of both ends.

thatsnotafestool

Okay I’ll let someone else answer but that’s how I would do it , it’s no good drawing your neutral point yet you have far to much waste needs removing it will all be lost. You and I work in very different ways. For the record, that is NOT my wood It is a piece of Kingspan. I wanted to test my metho...

thatsnotafestool

I can’t really see what’s going on. 1 your block looks oversize height and width, I would thickness your block to the thickness of the maximum twisted end . 2 put your template on the top lining up with your joint lines with the template if already cut. 3 square a line down from the tangent lines o...

thatsnotafestool

My reasoning for dropping those vertical lines at X X are correct, I've decided. However, drawing either a central vertical line (as per di Cristina page 132) or even a centre point on the face is not necessary providing that you use commonsense and position the top template to allow for the extra w...

thatsnotafestool

OK...I'm scratching my head now because before I committed to marking up and cutting the walnut, I decided to revisit everything and have come across one problem that I don't see addressed anywhere. It's to do with marking the bevels and also sliding the template. If you look at both of these drawin...

thatsnotafestool

Thanks Mark. I've been looking for a better way get the basic shape and wanted to try out my 20+ year old Bosch power chisel. It’s still in production clearly as you can get an adapter to take large Flexcut chisels. I paid a £6 premium and ordered an adapter from Axminster for pre-12pm delivery toda...

thatsnotafestool

Oldboy22 wrote: ↑
Mon Apr 12, 2021 9:51 am
Thanks for that all looks good , well done.

Thank you for all your help. I can now do one of these in about 30 minutes !

thatsnotafestool

Here you go

thatsnotafestool

.... I am applying the methodology of W & A Mowat which uses the minor axis to determine the crossover points for the wreath and from that point I was going to use a series of diminishing vertical marks from where the twist starts and then finish at the point of minor axis. .... I'm misunderstandin...

thatsnotafestool

And I thought I was an early bird!

Thanks for the references, Mark

thatsnotafestool

.... I am applying the methodology of W & A Mowat which uses the minor axis to determine the crossover points for the wreath and from that point I was going to use a series of diminishing vertical marks from where the twist starts and then finish at the point of minor axis. .... I'm misunderstandin...

thatsnotafestool

Meccarroll If you follow my previous advices and work the new vertical surfaces first it’s easier to hold in the vice, two parallel surfaces to grip. I got round that problem by getting one if these. It's excellent. https://cdn.axminstertools.com/media/catalog/product/cache/5a7ae93965a290622b2a179c...

thatsnotafestool

I forgot to show this one (partly because it shows the sides could be much better). The one concern that both Mark and I had was what the c/l would be and whether it would cause issues around the bend...ie spindles hanging in mid-air. The good news is that they don't. I planned ahead (ahem) when I i...

thatsnotafestool

Oldboy22 wrote: ↑
Sat Apr 10, 2021 5:44 pm
Sorry bud I didn’t mean to offend, I’ll keep out of it.

No offence taken.

thatsnotafestool

Here's a few photos, Mark. I can see the advantage now of a ply template. I couldn't before. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51106854604_a99de467e3_b.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51107891440_6d24434311_b.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51106856219_6e9070121c_b.jpg https://live...

thatsnotafestool

It fits. That's the main thing plus what you are seeing has also a long straight bit. It's regulation length !

If by 'a bit out' you mean the gap at the end where the 'reference' post is then that's only because the joint between wreath and easing has dropped.

thatsnotafestool

Welcome to the forum. I'm not familiar with either of the routers that you mentioned, but rather than blowing the dust away you should be looking to hooking a router up to a dust extractor. Most routers have some kind of of dust collection shroud. The Katsu doesn't and, AFAIK, neither does the DN66.

thatsnotafestool

Wreathed in smiles ?

It's not bad. One question...do the sides remain vertical all the way through the turn ?

thatsnotafestool

Many thanks for your kind words, Mark.

Onwards and upwards.

thatsnotafestool

Oldboy22 wrote: ↑
Thu Apr 08, 2021 8:01 pm
Are you starting to believe?

Never doubted as I've said. I doubted myself.

thatsnotafestool

And the answer is ...

Not bad. Not bad at all.

thatsnotafestool

Marked up (see the other thread) the softwood trial blank according to the drawing. Slowly trying to tease the wreath out. I'm finding it very hard to visualise and also to imagine where the cut lines are and to where I'm aiming - when they are buried in the wood. I'm doing it in two stages...the to...

thatsnotafestool

It's so hard getting that twist out of the wood. Making sure that you're gradually rotating the faces.

Any tips ?

thatsnotafestool

Thinking on it I’ve made a cockup you should add a straight bit to both ends and reduce the easing by that amount , I don’t know why I drew it like that but I did. You don’t put a straight bit where one twist joins another twist ,but of course the easing isn’t twisted . :oops: That's what SCMS's ar...

thatsnotafestool

Thinking on it I’ve made a cockup you should add a straight bit to both ends and reduce the easing by that amount , I don’t know why I drew it like that but I did. You don’t put a straight bit where one twist joins another twist ,but of course the easing isn’t twisted . :oops: That's what SCMS's ar...

thatsnotafestool

Thank you for the reply. In your drawing you have this circle... thr query 2.png Reading in the various books, I came to the conclusion that that line defined the point at which the twist changed from one direction to the other. Zero twist and as such was a good 'reference' point to help with the cu...

thatsnotafestool

I am assuming that the line marked with an arrow is the position of minimum twist ?

thatsnotafestool

You need to transfer that paper template for two pieces of ply or thin mdf, hardboard.and follow this picture tangent geometry.jpg The trouble with a lot of these old drawings is that they leave as many questions unanswered as they actually provide. For example: 1) Why is that top template slid ove...

thatsnotafestool

That's exactly what I've done.

I can't see the point of going to the bother of using a template made from ply when it's a one-off and gluing the paper template to the block with photo spray glue works fine.

thatsnotafestool

I need a sanity check please re 'sliding the bevel'. Bevels marked up. They were already 7 to 1. The template has been applied to one side. I am assuming that the line marked with an arrow is the position of minimum twist ? https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51100711149_9f4673b34f_b.jpg Now to slid...

thatsnotafestool

Thanks to both. 7 to 1 it is. Just checked what my first mock-up was and that is the right orientation.

thatsnotafestool

OK...I'm having one more crack at this. I revisited my drawing and although I had intended to pick up the different widths of the ellipse at either end and had done so, I'd used the wrong reference markers - which is why Oldboy thought they were parallel (they're not but marginally...hence the conf...

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