Iroko Worktop

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StephenR
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Iroko Worktop

Postby StephenR » Thu Aug 17, 2017 9:39 pm

Hi,

I was hoping to get a method/idea as to how I can achieve an iroko breakfast bar of a certain thickness that is not standard.

Standard worktop thicknesses are 30mm or 40mm. I need a worktop thickness of 43 or 44mm to match a stone worktop it will butt up against.

I've been thinking that I could buy a wider piece 30mm thick piece and mitre the ends thereby folding the ends over to make 43mm. But I'd have to do that on 3 sides (front and s sides) so that might be quite hard. The top mitred enges will have a slight chamfer to disguising the join somewhat. This is in effect how the manufactured stone worktop was made out of 20mm material.

My wife had the idea that we could stick 3mm wood around the edge on the bottom as a "feature". My personal take on this is I'd rather it was the same wood rather than something else. Would it be possible to slice off 3/4 mm thick peieces from the front and sides of a 40mm thick worktop, mitre the corners and stick it on/screw it on underneath and then use a router to make them flush and sand.

Hope this makes sense. Are the any other ideas?

thanks,

Stephen

9fingers
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Re: Iroko Worktop

Postby 9fingers » Sat Aug 19, 2017 8:49 am

Should work ok and you could run a beading router cutter along the glue line to draw the eye away from the join.
Information on induction motors and inverters here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_GZrX ... sp=sharing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Giff
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Re: Iroko Worktop

Postby Giff » Sun Aug 20, 2017 6:51 pm

I have used Iroko for a complete kitchen (mine) and have found that it can be unstable in thicker sections.I have made up large areas, including a 3mtr x 2mtr sliding door by bonding 6mm thick strips onto birch ply. The edges can then be finished with he same thickness strip or a deeper piece 40mm x 40mm and glued up as well. The strips were cut on a bandsaw and then sized on a thicknesser....if you have those facilities. Geoff

StephenR
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Re: Iroko Worktop

Postby StephenR » Tue Aug 22, 2017 4:43 pm

Thanks for the replies. Is there any type of glue/adhesive I should use for joining iroko?

The breakfast bar is about 1.1m x 0.8m canterleavered off the end of the island. It will rest/screwed to 3 steel bars 60x20mm protruding from the island so I'm hoping they will resist movement.

katellwood
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Re: Iroko Worktop

Postby katellwood » Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:49 pm

I've used both PU and Titebond 3 on iroko worktops successfully.

One suggestion is to wipe the joints with thinners then let it evaporate prior to gluing, this should remove any oils contained in the timber which could affect the adhesives abilities

Giff
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Re: Iroko Worktop

Postby Giff » Wed Aug 23, 2017 10:00 am

I use this D4 PU...strong and waterproof and easy to clean off whilst wet.

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesi ... lue/p61864

9fingers
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Re: Iroko Worktop

Postby 9fingers » Wed Aug 23, 2017 10:09 am

Apart from it not being polyurethane that is :lol:
Agreed, it is a good GP wood glue
Bob
Information on induction motors and inverters here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_GZrX ... sp=sharing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Image

Giff
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Re: Iroko Worktop

Postby Giff » Wed Aug 23, 2017 12:06 pm

Yes they do PU as well...I think it is a expanding market ( ha ha) with Accoya etc...Geoff

9fingers
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Re: Iroko Worktop

Postby 9fingers » Wed Aug 23, 2017 12:29 pm

I must admit I rarely use pu as I found it difficult to clean up fully and the damage only showed up when staining/finishing the project.
Is the everbuild pu d4 easier to clean up than other foaming pu types?
Bob
Information on induction motors and inverters here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_GZrX ... sp=sharing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Image

Giff
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Re: Iroko Worktop

Postby Giff » Wed Aug 23, 2017 1:00 pm

No it's dreadful! I use the 30min one. and found it near impossible to cleanup before the clamps are off. It does cut off easily though, but takes time.
I have found trying to clean it as it's curing is a loosing battle..Geoff

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Re: Iroko Worktop

Postby 9fingers » Wed Aug 23, 2017 1:07 pm

Thanks Geoff for confirming what I feared.
I did one job of dining chairs with foaming PU and masked off all the squeeze out areas but it took ages.

I think I'll stick to my policy of only using PU for the more "agricultural" jobs!

Bob
Information on induction motors and inverters here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_GZrX ... sp=sharing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Image

Giff
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Re: Iroko Worktop

Postby Giff » Wed Aug 23, 2017 1:10 pm

Yes I would a well Bob. I had to use the PU for some window frames using Acoya, as their tech department recommended it....it isn't very delicate and needs quite a bit of clean up as you say. Geoff


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