Centauro SP500 tuning

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oldboy
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Centauro SP500 tuning

Post by oldboy » Wed Apr 02, 2014 8:49 pm

Hi All,
just received my centauro SP 500.
The table is perfect flat but the blade is not fully vertical /square to table nor to the guides. Seems like the top wheel needs shifting to the left a little bit.

Anyone knows how to do this on this machine?

Thks

Ps I appreciate this may not be the most clever way to proceed and I should just tilt the table a tad to bring it square but just checking...

tusses
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Re: Centauro SP500 tuning

Post by tusses » Wed Apr 02, 2014 9:18 pm

can you not make/adjust the bed and guides square to the blade ?

oldboy
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Re: Centauro SP500 tuning

Post by oldboy » Wed Apr 02, 2014 9:40 pm

the bed yes. the guides not really

tusses
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Re: Centauro SP500 tuning

Post by tusses » Wed Apr 02, 2014 9:53 pm

photo ?

I can't imagine not being able to move the guides ?

oldboy
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Re: Centauro SP500 tuning

Post by oldboy » Wed Apr 02, 2014 9:58 pm

you can move the guides horizontally but not tilt them. Cant see too well in the photo on this link http://www.centaurospa.it/cms_rc/upload ... dalama.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
but the block are screwed to the main arm assembly and two horizontal runners force them into a square position vs the assembly.

jrm
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Re: Centauro SP500 tuning

Post by jrm » Wed Apr 02, 2014 10:00 pm

Hi OB. Your P.S. is the way to go because trying to move the top wheel would be a little mad :lol:

First back off all the guides (top and bottom) so none are in contact with the blade. I think your table moves by a sort of rack and pinion. If I'm right, you adjust the angle using something similar to tyre-wrench supplied with the machine (or a spanner if not). Raise the upper guard and check the blade with the longest square you have. There is a 90 degree stop which is simply a bolt sticking out of the bodywork below the table near the column. If the blade isn't square to the table, first check that the table is seated against the stop and, if not, rotate the table angle until it is. If it is against the stop, then this needs adjusting. Undo the locking nut and screw the bolt in or out to adjust the stop position before locking with the nut again. Once you have the stop adjusted so that the blade is at 90degrees, adjust the thrust hearing and side bearings to give just a little clearance. Re-check to make sure you haven't inadvertently pushed the blade out of square while doing this. If it's still square, you're good to go.

Hope that helps,

John

oldboy
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Re: Centauro SP500 tuning

Post by oldboy » Wed Apr 02, 2014 10:20 pm

Got all that john. Thks. what is nagging me is that it feels as if the top wheel is not where it is supposed to be. Even the telescopic blade guard, when it is in its highest position (biggest throat opening) is effectively right up against the wheel...this means that since the blade teeth protrude from the wheel, they are ripping against it...feels wrong as i therefore have to be careful not to raise the guard too high

tusses
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Re: Centauro SP500 tuning

Post by tusses » Wed Apr 02, 2014 10:24 pm

photo :)

oldboy
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Re: Centauro SP500 tuning

Post by oldboy » Thu Apr 03, 2014 10:03 pm

ok found out how to adjust blocks (can rotate the assembly in fact. and i just bent the blade guard a little so it does not risk touching the blade when throat is max open. I also found out by looking at the doc that taking the flywheel out would not help much as there is no adjustments that can be made there!
Ok I am square and reassured now! thks helping guys.

tusses
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Re: Centauro SP500 tuning

Post by tusses » Fri Apr 04, 2014 6:31 am

oldboy wrote:you can move the guides horizontally but not tilt them. Cant see too well in the photo on this link http://www.centaurospa.it/cms_rc/upload ... dalama.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
but the block are screwed to the main arm assembly and two horizontal runners force them into a square position vs the assembly.
sorry, I missed this reply ... I meant a decent size pic of your setup, but it seems you have it set up now . Well done :)

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Re: Centauro SP500 tuning

Post by ondablade » Sat Apr 05, 2014 3:54 pm

Hi OB, well done on the new bandsaw - it should once set up be a pleasure. Common sense i guess suggests that there isn't anything normally wrong with a new saw of that quality by way of a basic manufacturing or fundamental set up inaccuracy (these are all well proven designs) - but it's best to eliminate this possibility, and to bounce it back ASAP to the supplier if you're left with any reason for concern. I'd be cautious about the blade touching metal… What's quite likely is that it's not been very precisely set up before delivery.

It's a bit much to explain here in detail, but this is a good book that's very much regarded as a bandsaw bible and goes through the procedure (and just about anything else you can imagine or need to know about bandsaws) step by step: http://www.amazon.co.uk/New-Complete-Gu ... 1565233182" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Makers' manuals are typically very sketchy. As the guys have suggested the basic deal is to think of correct blade tracking as being maintained as a result of the two band wheels being held rigidly in the same plane by a stiff frame. (misalignment or too much twisting under blade tension forces = blade tracking problems) So the fundamental check is normally to open the doors and (power disconnected) using a long straight edge and sighting sticks to check this. That's with the blade fitted and correctly tensioned (there's always some deflection under load), and the blade guides backed right out of contact with the blade. Make sure that the wheels end up aligned relative to each other as though they were both lying rim side face down on the same flat surface - they can be out in numerous ways.

There's adjustments to align the wheels, but don't touch especially the bottom wheel unless you are confident you can get it right. Probably better if not to get some help from the supplier's service - they should be sorting a new saw anyway.

Most Italian machines with relatively flat/low camber wheels advise that the blade runs with the teeth slightly off the infeed side of the top wheel, this can if needed be fine tuned with the top wheel blade tilt adjustment. Narrow blades can be a little touchy to track on saws with low camber - best to stick with say 1/2 in or slightly larger to start. The guides don't track the blade, they only provide back up under heavy cutting forces - so the blade should track in a stable manner (make sure there's no dust caked on the tyres) as the saw runs with the guides backed right out. Once that's sorted the table is set square to the blade using the tilt stop, and the top and bottom guides set the correct distances away from the blade. Check also that the top guides remain centred on the blade (side to side, and front to back) as the guide post is adjusted through its full range of travel - if not that's probably also a supplier job to fix.

Have fun….

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