Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 Plus

[Roger-M]

A previous test set up in 2012 compared Osmo UV Oil and Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 Plus on Iroko, and it was not long before Sikkens showed its class. But would that be the same on other species of wood? And how would it compare with Sadolin? That's what this new test is set up to establish.

This time I've used separate test pieces for each timber and finish, and each piece of wood for each species comes from the same plank.

Column 1 is Iroko
Column 2 is English Oak
Column 3 is Sapele
Column 4 is treated softwood

Row 1 (Top) is Sadolin Ultra (Walnut). One coat of Sadolin clear base coat with 2 coats of top coat
Row 2 is Sadolin Classic (Walnut) 2 coats
Row 3 is Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 Plus (Walnut). One coat of Cetol HLS (Light Oak), with 2 coats of Cetol Filter 7 Plus (Walnut)
Row 4 is Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 Plus (Pale Oak). One coat of Cetol HLS (Light Oak), with 2 coats of Cetol Filter 7 Plus (Light Oak )
Row 5 (Bottom) is bare wood with no finish.

All finishes were applied onto dry wood with a brush in accordance with manufacturers instructions. All edges have been rounded over.

It'll be interesting to see which brand comes out on top, and also whether the more pigmented Sikkens Walnut is more durable than the Pale Oak equivalent from the same manufacturer.

The whole artistic creation will be placed upright facing south in full sun, and as before, I'll update every 6 months, or when I remember, or when asked!

[woodsmith]

Brilliant, look forward to the updates. I had a glue test in the garden for many years, it became a point of discourse and division when it became less sightly!

[Leveller2911]

Glad you posted another test set Roger, look forward to seeing how they all stand up. I often use Sikkens Cetol filter 7 and also the HLS with Filter 7 top coat.

Cheers Again Leveller.

[Roger-M]

Thanks Leveller. My guess is that Sikkens Filter 7 (Walnut) will be the winner, but I'm particularly interested to see how it fares against Sadolin Ultra. Time will tell!

[davy]

I tend to treat external woodwork as I would decking. I.e I dont want anything that peels or flakes cos it is a bugger to rub down before applying a maintenance coat.
I find that:
- Sikkens Filter 7 is good on vertical surfaces but hopeless on horizontal surfaces
- OSMO UV wax was useless at preventing the wood greying and left a blotchy appearance and then impossible to apply maintenance coats over wax.

So every couple of years I
- wash down to remove dust and bird droppings
- apply fungicide or bleach to remove black algae stains
- apply clear wood preserver - especially to joints
- apply clear or very-lightly coloured decking oil which soaks into the wood
No scrapping or sanding necessary. All quickly slapped on with a brush so takes very little time.
This procedure allows the wood to fade to a silvery grey (looks good on iroko) without black streaks

You could try this on one of your untreated panels?

[Roger-M]

Here is an update on the Sadolin or Sikkens test pieces.

After 15 months the only ones showing visible signs of degradation are the Iroko and English Oak with Sadolin classic (Walnut). The Sadolin Classic on the Sapele and Treated Softwood is fine, as are the other finishes. I wouldn't expect much degradation after just one summer. Let's see what another one does!

[woodsmith]

Thanks for the update, much appreciated.

[Leveller2911]

Thanks Roger, really appreciate your efforts and keeping us updated..

[Bodgejob]

Hi all I am new here but been looking at this and the other test by Roger regarding longevity of wood finishes against weather and UV with great interest. Any update on how they are holding up? Was originally going to coat my new oak property sign with Osmo oil but after seeing how it held up overtime on the other thread all be it on a different type of wood I am niw thinking the Sikkens is probably the better way to go?

[Roger-M]

This test has been running for 21 months now, and we're well into the second summer. As expected, mixed results so far.

The Sadolin Ultra, and both Sikkens finishes (walnut and light oak) are holding up well on all timbers. That's rows 1, 3 and 4, with row 5 being bare uncoated timber.

The Sadolin Classic (walnut) is however, already showing signs of deterioration on the iroko (column 1) and English oak (column 2), although still holding up well on the Sapele (column 3) and treated softwood (column 4). I didn't degrease any of the woods with meths before painting, so I'm wondering whether that has had any influence. This next photos shows the iroko (left) and oak (right) treated with Sadolin Classic.

Let's see what damage another summer inflicts on it.

[Bodgejob]

Thank you Roger,
Originally I was going to use Osmo 420 oil as I would have liked to show off the natural beauty of the grain but think the best course of action now will be to go down the Sikkens Light Oak route judging by the results of both tests. The wood I have to treat is currently bare European White Oak and will also be situated in a South facing position with coastal conditions, would there be any benefit of using more coats than the single coat of Cetol HLS and 2 coats of Cetol Filter 7 Plus you use as per the instructions on the tin? If so what would you say the most beneficial number of coats would be?

[Leveller2911]

Thank you Roger,
Originally I was going to use Osmo 420 oil as I would have liked to show off the natural beauty of the grain but think the best course of action now will be to go down the Sikkens Light Oak route judging by the results of both tests. The wood I have to treat is currently bare European White Oak and will also be situated in a South facing position with coastal conditions, would there be any benefit of using more coats than the single coat of Cetol HLS and 2 coats of Cetol Filter 7 Plus you use as per the instructions on the tin? If so what would you say the most beneficial number of coats would be?

Do you mean European Oak or American white Oak?. The reason I ask is American White Oak is only moderately durable, same grade as Sapele etc so not as durable as European Oak.. American White Oak is usually used for internal Joinery rather than External.............

All the best Leveller.............

[Leveller2911]

Cheers for the update Roger, I'm gonna stick with Sikkens I Think..........Re meths, I wonder if it would have made any real difference, I don't really see even Iroko being very Oily these days so not sure meths would make any difference...


All the best Leveller..

[Roger-M]

Thank you Roger,
Originally I was going to use Osmo 420 oil as I would have liked to show off the natural beauty of the grain but think the best course of action now will be to go down the Sikkens Light Oak route judging by the results of both tests. The wood I have to treat is currently bare European White Oak and will also be situated in a South facing position with coastal conditions, would there be any benefit of using more coats than the single coat of Cetol HLS and 2 coats of Cetol Filter 7 Plus you use as per the instructions on the tin? If so what would you say the most beneficial number of coats would be?

That's beyond my pay grade! Given that the paint companies are in business to sell paint, I don't see them specifying fewer than the optimal number of coats. This stuff has to breathe, so I don't think extra coats at the outset would necessarily help.

As Leveller says, are you using European Oak or American White Oak? For outside use, the normal choice would be either European Oak or English Oak, with American White Oak normally being used for internal furniture.

[Bodgejob]

It is English Oak that as been kiln dried and left undercover for about a year to settle. Sorry for the confusion I was under the impression that English and European Oak was the same species and a member of the White Oak family?

[telos]

Roger, thanks for continuing with this. It really is a fantastic real world test and a great resource for anyone searching for actual evidence. I hope your photos remain available for many years to come!