coach screws, not boltsengineerone wrote:...... i assume the mounting bolts should be through the bench, and if so then the top of the bolts should be in a counter bored hole, but do you fill the holes, or put a cover over them?? .....
mrgrimsdale wrote:coach screws, not bolts
Bolts are bolts, coach screws are screws:engineerone wrote:given the quality of so many fixings these days, i too would rather use bolts or threaded rod rather than coach screws
anyway i was taught when i did my coachbuilding course a looooooooooooong time ago, they were actually coach bolts, not screws. mainly because they had fixings at each end.
They are called 'coach screws'. You are nearly right otherwise. They are used to join metal to wood; screws for one plate, bolts when there is a plate on both sides. Never for joining wood to wood. Oddly enough in the beginnings metal also was joined with woodwork joints; dovetails etc.engineerone wrote:well i will probably use "proper nuts and bolts" as suggested by brian, but i did check out the other stuff ie coach bolts and coach screws. and in my research i believe i was right.
jacob what you call coach screws are actually more correctly called lagging bolts or screws, they were used initially i think on early steam engines where the boilers were lagged with wood, and the fixings went through metal and wood. coach bolts were designed to hold in wood, and yet hold wood and metal together. rarely in my study of 20th century coach built vehicles of the old school was the wood joined in any other way than using proper woodwork joints. however where metal items were attached, then coach bolts were used.
Turn the bench upside down on a couple of saw stools. If you try to work from underneath the bench you might drop the vice on your head. Hmm, let me guess - this isn't the first time you have tried this? Are you a Laurel & Hardy fan or what? Do wear your bowler.bloody hell 14 kg is heavy when you are using one hand to hold the bloody thing up against the underside of your bench, and then trying to screw the nuts and bolts together
mrgrimsdale wrote:Turn the bench upside down on a couple of saw stools. If you try to work from underneath the bench you might drop the vice on your head. Are you a Laurel & Hardy fan or what?
paulchapman wrote:Or you could clamp a long piece of wood vertically in the vice, so that it reaches the floor and holds the vice at the correct height.
engineerone wrote: paul what have you used for the false jaws, and how do you fix them??
No it's a Dakota. When he finds the instructions he'll have to start again I bet they are still in the box.andy wrote:This has got to be a record
27 posts on how to fix a vice using 4 bolts and 2 false wooden jaws using 4 wood screws
Was it not supplied with step by step fitting instructions
andy wrote:27 posts on how to fix a vice using 4 bolts and 2 false wooden jaws using 4 wood screws
Surely essential for all bench joinery? What is a zyliss BTW? Some sort of alloy DIY gadget with plastic handles I'll be boundengineerone wrote:....
now i have one, maybe i'll understand why they seem so important to some people, and not to others.
davyowen wrote:andy wrote:27 posts on how to fix a vice using 4 bolts and 2 false wooden jaws using 4 wood screws
You obviously weren't paying attention Andy, you can't use wood screws to hold on the false jaws because the vices design will inevitably lead to the screws working loose. See, aren't you glad this thread exists now?
modernist wrote: woodscrews into the bench. At least then you don't have to take the vice off (and we all know what a pain that is) to change the jaws.
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