Bedposts

[7sheds]

I'm making 4-poster beds. My lathe takes work pieces up to 900mm so the posts have to be turned in 3 sections then joined. It's no problem turning a 1" dowel on the ends of the sections but I have a problem when it comes to the corresponding holes. I've used a chuck in the headstock with a Forstner bit but the hole always seems to go marginally offline resulting in the posts not being straight when joined. By sanding the dowels to a sloppy fit and using gap-filling glue I can get them straight but I'd prefer not to bodge. How can I ensure they are drilled true? (My pillar drill is only a bench-top type so no help for this)

[Leveller2911]

Thinking as a joiner rather than a turner have you considered making a router jig for making the hole?. A jig would be referenced on the face/end of the post so it would be square and true . Trend sell a router cutter that I use for their lock jig which will router 80mm+ deep .

[siafins]

Id go with Leveller and a router. Ive turned a fair few newel posts on the the lathe with a 50mm spigot and the forstner bit always wandered even with a really expensive top of the range bit! To be honest the cheapy forstner bits were better.

Even using a router free hand is surprisingly accurate without a jig as long as you clamp supports around the post to create a good platform.

[katellwood]

I've had the same problem when turning newel posts for staircases. the problem I've discovered is using a forstner bit.

Through their basic design they will only stay accurate for the depth of the bit. When the whole bit usually about 12-15mm (excluding the shaft) is within the timber not only is it cutting depthwise it also often cuts sideways thereby skewing the hole.

For holes above 32mm I have made a wooden sleeve the same dia as the forstner bit and bored with the dia of the bit shaft which is placed on the shaft and keeps the hole true (you have to withdraw the bit regularly to remove the waste)

For holes under 30mm I now use something like this

http://www.screwfix.com/p/armeg-wood-be ... 4pcs/61911

http://www.screwfix.com/p/armeg-wood-be ... 32mm/91676

or this

http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-auger-b ... 00mm/85314

If you want to continue using a forstner bit then another alternative is to slightly taper the tenon to account for the offset hole, jig up to ensure the post is straight and glue with cascamite which will take up the inaccuracies (I did this on this newel which, with three teenage boys gets swung upon a great deal and has held up with no issues)














Alternatively make one of these and support the end of the post at the tailstock end.

http://hants-woodturners-hwa.co.uk/try- ... eady-rest/

which will only work for round sections on your posts (unless you make a round collar with a square hole the same size as your post)

[katellwood]

Sorry Siafins was typing whilst you were posting

[jake]

Zobo-style forstners with a pilot (which may or may not be self-drilling depending on how you want to use them) would help.

Below is a link to a piece about the Festool branded ones (which is how I came across them).

http://www.core77.com/posts/25985/Festo ... t-The-Zobo

[7sheds]

So often there is a special tool for a job that you can't find on the internet because you don't even know it exists. That's the beauty of forums like this. I recently acquired a Kreg pocket screw jig for example.

Thanks for the great ideas guys. Time to head down to my local Screwfix and check out some of these products.

I'll start a new thread to discuss the bane of my life - cross-dowel hole alignment. Nurse, where are my meds?!